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Little Lebowski Urban Achievers Crag
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Gutterballs S 
Jackie Treehorn S 
Jesus, The S,TR 
Logjammin S,TR 
Mark It Zero! TR 
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Nihilist, The S,TR 
Shomer Shabbas S,TR 

Shomer Shabbas 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Shore, 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 714
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Aug 24, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Shomer Shabbas, 5.9+

Description 

"I told that Kraut a f&@king thousand times that I don't roll on Shabbas!"

Good crimping on solid dark varnish down low gives way to big slopers up high. Crux moves come before and after the first bolt. Another fun moderate route in the Lebowski area.

Location 

Located amongst some formations northwest of the main LLUA Crag. See the map under the main page for directions.

Protection 

3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Walkoff down the backside.


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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 25, 2011

Looks like a great addition to the area! Looking forward to climbing it...not on Shabbas of course.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Sep 4, 2011

Three thousand years of beautiful tradition, from Moses to Sandy Coufax, you're goddamend right I'm livin' in the past!
By Jiana ten Brinke
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 10, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A nice climb and definitely a great addition to the Playground! It's perfect for practicing slab technique with delicate, balancing moves and mantling on slopers. With a high first bolt, the start is a little adventurous and committing.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 25, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

After a weekend of withstanding multiple attempts by multiple parties, a number of holds broke below the first bolt. The general consensus was that the route now goes at 5.10-. Starting directly below the first bolt--the more direct line of travel--now seems a bit awkward. I noticed most people were starting on the large hueco out left, then doing a delicate move right. But enough boring beta; the route climbs very well and the upper section is quite elegant. Fun and technical.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 25, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

After a weekend of withstanding multiple attempts by multiple parties, a number of holds broke below the first bolt. The general consensus was that the route now goes at 5.10-. Starting directly below the first bolt--the more direct line of travel--now seems a bit awkward. I noticed most people were starting on the large hueco out left, then doing a delicate move right. But enough boring beta; the route climbs very well and the upper section is quite elegant. Fun and technical.
By Richard Shore
Feb 28, 2012

Just revisited this one after a long hiatus. Nothing has broken from my sequence on the "awkward" direct start since the FA. Direct is the only way I've ever done it with a rock-up onto a high right foot, but would agree that 10a is probably fair.
By Unassigned User
Apr 30, 2012

I like it! Can not say too much about it since I did not lead it... But on top rope it felt like a easy .10 or hard .9. Those first moves up to the bolt make me feel like I have super powers when I pull them. Nothing quite like standing on nothing and making it work.

Thanks for the addition Shore!
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 13, 2013