Shoes to complement 5.10 Moccasym

So I have a pair of 5.10 Moccasyms (my first pair of shoes) and have had no complaints climbing limestone here in Central Texas. The other day I went to Enchanted Rock (granite) and did some slab climbing (smearing/edging) and after a couple routes that were admittedly above my skill level, my feet were KILLING me. So now I have a couple of questions:

1) Can the majority of this foot pain be attributed to lack of strength/poor technique?

2) Is there another shoe that compliments the 5.10's by doing what they do not do well? The guy I was climbing with had a pair of TC Pros, and they seem to get good reviews and called "stiff" whereas I don't consider the moccasym stiff by any means. They're probably as expensive as I'd dare go for climbing shoes, but I adhere to "buy once, cry once" when it's worth it. That being said I'm not a brand snob, and would gladly check out other offerings as I know it's the arrow, not the Indian at this point.

LaSportive Muira lace or 5.10 Pink (new) Anasazi's

I wear my mocs mainly for cracks and easy long routes where edging isn't a huge part. Mocs are also perfect for an every-day gym shoe--super soft and comfortable. They are great in cracks and smear pretty well in my experience. I don't have great slab technique either but don't really get any foot pain. Maybe my fear masks it. Dean Potter free'd the Regular Route on HD in Mocs so they must be okay!

I also have a pair of TCs for when I'm climbing at my limit on mixed terrain or on routes that require a lot of thin edging. They are super stiff and feel like mountaineering boots on those dime edges. Very reassuring. I climb a majority of my time on Sierra granite so that has a lot to do with my choices. A good edging alternative to the TCs are the Katanas or lace up Muiras. All three are really expensive though. I've spent years dialing in my footwear and the Mocs and TCs are by far the best combo for what I climb.

Theriault wrote:LaSportive Muira lace or 5.10 Pink (new) Anasazi's

Dumb question: what is the difference between the lace ups and Velcro? I see the majority of people recommending the lace ups but haven't found the reason why.

Velcro has a much more aggressive profile and is a bit softer.

id say check out the stonelands vcs if you can try them on somewhere. good stiffness, good price, comfy and versatile.

stonelands vcs

+1 for the Stonelands! The slippers are stiffer than the vcs if you can find a pair in your size, they discontinued the slippers. I may have hoarded a few pairs when they went on mega clearance. Or if you can find Anasazi Blancos in your size they are awesome edging shoes, I have them down a full size from street shoe size and they are snug/tight, but tolerable for a few pitches.

Andrewww wrote:+1 for the Stonelands! The slippers are stiffer than the vcs if you can find a pair in your size, they discontinued the slippers. I may have hoarded a few pairs when they went on mega clearance. Or if you can find Anasazi Blancos in your size they are awesome edging shoes, I have them down a full size from street shoe size and they are snug/tight, but tolerable for a few pitches.

I've been wearing 8.5 in moccasyms, but of course 5.10 only has up to 8 on their website closeout.

mc813 wrote:So I have a pair of 5.10 Moccasyms (my first pair of shoes) and have had no complaints climbing limestone here in Central Texas. The other day I went to Enchanted Rock (granite) and did some slab climbing (smearing/edging) and after a couple routes that were admittedly above my skill level, my feet were KILLING me. So now I have a couple of questions: 1) Can the majority of this foot pain be attributed to lack of strength/poor technique? 2) Is there another shoe that compliments the 5.10's by doing what they do not do well? The guy I was climbing with had a pair of TC Pros, and they seem to get good reviews and called "stiff" whereas I don't consider the moccasym stiff by any means. They're probably as expensive as I'd dare go for climbing shoes, but I adhere to "buy once, cry once" when it's worth it. That being said I'm not a brand snob, and would gladly check out other offerings as I know it's the arrow, not the Indian at this point.

Moccs are about the softest, least stiff, and worst edging shoes out there. Don't get me wrong, they are great at what they do well, but edging isn't it. Just pick up any stiffer edging shoe that fits your feet well. If you are looking for inexpensive, the madrock flash does a pretty good job at edging for half the price of the other shoes listed in this thread. Granted, they aren't TC pro's, but for the price and at your level, they would be great.

The Anasazi VCS have worked out well for me when more edging than the moccs (on my feet anyway) can handle. They're the same size in either model for me.

for the smearing ... the problem isnt so much the shoes ... stealth rubber and a soft shoe is one of the best setups for lower angle granite climbs

the problem is that you likely arent used to smearing and the rock type ... lower angle granite kills many a foot for gym and steep limestone climbers out here

granite slab climbing is especially hard on the feet ... your feet, calves and toes are what will get "pumped" out ... the trick is to strengthen yr feet and find creative ways to rest them on the climb

also for smearing, dont just use yr toes, use the entire ball of yr foot

now for edging ... the moccasyms are not known as an edging shoe ... but there should be absolutely no problems smearing in them

;)

Mocs for crack climbing and long mp routes. Shamans for sport climbing.

bearbreeder wrote:for the smearing ... the problem isnt so much the shoes ... stealth rubber and a soft shoe is one of the best setups for lower angle granite climbs the problem is that you likely arent used to smearing and the rock type ... lower angle granite kills many a foot for gym and steep limestone climbers out here granite slab climbing is especially hard on the feet ... your feet, calves and toes are what will get "pumped" out ... the trick is to strengthen yr feet and find creative ways to rest them on the climb also for smearing, dont just use yr toes, use the entire ball of yr foot now for edging ... the moccasyms are not known as an edging shoe ... but there should be absolutely no problems smearing in them ;)

YES. I mentioned to my partner I was used to having to shake out my arms, not my legs! I know a big part is probably my strength, but it was hard to stay on tiny granite knobs without my feet giving out.

Scarpa boosting super stiff and amazing sport climbing shoe

It's nice to see that stiff shoes are starting to get some favorable attention once again. When you really need to stand on a crisp thin edge, there's nothing quite as reassuring as a firm platform under your foot.

Boreal Aces for the win!

Gunkiemike wrote: Boreal Aces for the win!

I still have a pair of the first gen Ace.

The katana laces are great slab shoes if they fit you. unfortunately for me, my feet are too wide for them so my toes don't always reach the end. i still love the heck out of those shoes, though. They're stiff enough to edge well yet soft enough to smear.