|The Christian Brothers
Although SOTF gets the same grade as Wartley's Revenge, its neighbor to the left, the climbing is much more physically demanding.
Initially, the overhanging crack can be jammed with hands / fists but after deciphering the bulging crux the crack tapers to thin hands / fingers and remains demanding until close to the anchor.
If the pigeon guano down low and loose rock just underneath the anchor was absent this would be a 3 star route.
Stoppers and cams to 3" provide solid protection. Take doubles of .75" - 2" cams. Bolted rappel anchor at the top of the first pitch.
Making slightly awkward moves into and out of the ...
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 7, 2006
A fun climb that should get more attention. The birdshit in this route is horrendous but the climbing is great.
|By Max Tepfer|
From: Bend, OR
Apr 22, 2014
Yes, there is a little bit of rat urine and bird shit on this route. That being said, this is by far the longest and the best hand crack at Smith and deserves to get climbed with much more regularity. This thing feels more like climbing granite than climbing tuff. +1 that the rock in the last 10' is of poorer quality, but it would probably clean up if it got traffic...