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Shoes for Limestone?
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Feb 28, 2014
I have a pair of Mythos which seem to work wonderfully for most of the stuff in Southern California, granite and sandstone sport routes.. though for the past few months I have been around northern thailand with the limestone and these shoes are not working to say the least....

what is your recommendation for shoe and rubber for limestone sport like in thailand.. i'm not doing anything too terribly overhanging.. reaching limit around 6a+/10c
Neyma
From LA or SD or Thailand..
Joined Jan 20, 2014
5 points
Feb 28, 2014
Try the Muira lace-up it's the next step up in LaSportiva's quiver. JJNS
Joined Sep 30, 2008
505 points
Mar 3, 2014
I went from Mythos to tarantulace to Muira lace ups. The tarantulace are a decent step up, the the muiras are much better all around, specifically the rubber.

Mythos are my go to shoes when I need something comfy and edging doesn't matter. I use the Muira for everything else.
TheHobbyist
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 16, 2013
4 points
Mar 4, 2014
I have no idea if the limestone in Thailand is acutally any different, but in Ontario I mostly climb on limestone and haven't noticed any difference between my shoes in terms of rubber.

My go to shoes are sportiva Katanas, using both original and whatever they were resoled with last. When I want something a little more sensative I switch over to my Sportiva Baracudas or my Boreal Cruxes, which both are still on their original rubber.

Over the years I have used many kinda of shoes - 5.10, Evolv, Scarpa. While the construct of the shoe makes a difference I've never cared about rubber.
beccs
Joined Mar 13, 2012
0 points
Mar 4, 2014
Really, just about anything will be an improvement over the Mythos. Basically, you just need something with a more pointed toe and a stiffer edging platform. Since the Mythos is just about the least pointy and least stiff shoe on the market, finding an upgrade will be easy. The rubber is not the issue; it is the design and shape of the shoe. Jason's recommendation for the Miura Lace is an excellent one; this is a great all-around performance shoe that will be useful in most contexts. If you are using them for sport climbing, get them a fair bit tighter than your Mythos. The Katana (lace or velcro), or the Miura VS would also do the job well; try them all on and see what fits best. or look in to the various offerings from other companies. Seriously, just about any shoe you buy will be a step up. JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
Mar 4, 2014
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The Mythos a great shoe, don't knock it. :p It still might be the rubber. How old are your shoes? If they're pretty old have you tried lightly sanding the rubber to remove the patina of old, crusty rubber? Paul P
From RSA
Joined May 31, 2012
5 points
Mar 4, 2014
Paul P wrote:
The Mythos a great shoe, don't knock it. :p It still might be the rubber. How old are your shoes? If they're pretty old have you tried lightly sanding the rubber to remove the patina of old, crusty rubber?


They still do really good at the gym on the plastic, but they are just slipping and sliding all over the thai limestone. They probably have 40+ days of climbing on them indoors and out.
Neyma
From LA or SD or Thailand..
Joined Jan 20, 2014
5 points
Mar 4, 2014
Cold day at Smug's
Neyma wrote:
They still do really good at the gym on the plastic, but they are just slipping and sliding all over the thai limestone. They probably have 40+ days of climbing on them indoors and out.

IMO (and others might disagree) Mythos are the jack of all trades and master of none. And I also think that they're the worst when it comes to edging (think gym climbing). I can make almost any rubber work in the gym as long as the shoe edges well.

I know, people send hard climbs all the time in Mythos.
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
209 points


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