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Shoe replacement for Miuras (something without asymmetry)

Original Post
stevehollx · · charlotte, nc · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 25

I've been climbing in Miuras for about 6 months now. I really enjoy the edging and stiffness of the shoe, however the asymmetric toe design puts undue pressure on my big toe. These shoes seem to have caused some tendonitis in my big toe, and after spending a day climbing a bunch of hard slab in them, my toes ached to the point where it hurt to walk the next day. So I think these aren't the shoes for me after all.

So, to help my toes recover I'm back in my 5.10 spires, and though I love the rubber, the edging in them rolls right around my toes.

I'm curious what people recommend for a shoe design that edges well but have more symmetry to spread the load out across a couple more toes.

Anasazi VCS? (seems to be a favorite)
Anasazi Guides? (Too new for many reviews)
Stonelands?
TC Pros? (Expensive & don't see many people use these indoors?)

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

I went from Miura Lace to Katana Lace and found the KL to be a better shoe. I tried the Miura VS and found it too asymmetric and too toe-down for my liking. I am also breaking in a pair of Tenaya Ra right now; will know more over the next few weekends but so far so good. To me, both the Ra and the Katana Lace have little or no asymmetry and both are very good for thin face climbs. Good luck.

ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246

I have been climbing in the TC pros for 6 months now. My impressions:

Stiffest shoe I have ever been in, including most cambered shoes. Long break in time and tight toe jams almost impossible until you loosen them up a bit.

Micro edging is fantstic due to the stiffness and they are slab masters.

I got mine a half size up from my katana lace ups and I can wear them for awhile(1 hour +) before my feet start cramping. If you want uber all day comfort maybe go a whole size up but I like the balance of comfort and performance I got.

My ankles haven't stopped emphatically thanking me after crack climbing, especially OW.

I have a very wide toe box so Sportiva's just tend to fit best, but it sounds like that could be helpful for your toe issues. Not sure though, this in no way constitutes medical advice. Btdubs.

I am constantly surprised by how good they are and the only reason I would bust out the katanas now is for big overhanging routes where I still like the power I get from the cambered toe.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

Toughen up your big toes (cause hard edging really is better under the big toe) or try anything besides Sportiva. Scarpa is just as asymmetrical, but (besides Vapor V) is wider so you may be able to distribute the force over your other toes. Five Ten, Tenaya or pretty much any other brand would be better if your big toes aren't straight.

Josh Jones · · Ranchos de Taos · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 130

I've tried the TC Pros starting with a size 40, went up to 40.5 and again up to my street shoe size, 41 at which point they started to feel a bit sloppy. All sizes hurt my big toe so bad I would have a purple toe nail for weeks after a day of 5.9 multi pitch climbing. Is this common during break in period? They climbed great, I just wish they were more comfy for me as they are supposed to be the all day comfort shoe. My 39.5 Miuras are great. I can climb in them all day long. Guess my wide flat feet and huge big toe don't work well with the TC Pro. I really still want to like them:)

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Katana lace

Or for more trad and slab ... Katana velcro

They are sized wider than the miuras

I own and use both types of the katanas and miuras

Ultimately your foot is what will decide ... Not some MPer on da intrawebs

;)

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

I had a similar experience to yours ( loved Miura lace but they hurt).

Anasazi VCS are fairly similar performance wise to the Miura and I find they fit my feet better. Plus for bouldering/sport I like the Velcro because I'm lazy.

For all day trad though, it's hard to beat the TC pros.

Justin Brunson · · Tacoma WA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 2,266

Red Chilis work well on me as all-arounders. Flat enough for slabs & cracks, sensitive enough for steeper edging.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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