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Shoe prices are OUT OF HAND!!!
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By AdamB
From Chattanooga, TN
Oct 28, 2012
Black Boulder Problem, sent after a generous skin ...
I agree that prices have gotten a little nuts, but with a little creative Googling, I haven't paid full retail for a pair of shoes for a loooong time.

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By Adam Floyd
From Las Vegas
Oct 28, 2012
Vegas the Dog
I was under the impression that prices on Sportivas went up this year slightly, (10-20) more per pair, and they had issues filling orders due to a strike or negotiations with the shoe makers in Italy.

This is why almost almost all big online retailers no longer have standard foot sizes in the most popular models 10-11.5.
It is also why pro deal was bumped back for TC Pros this year from may to august and now till the new year.

A friend also mentioned that the solutions have 15 or 20 individual pieces that are sewn together, while most shoes have 6 or 7, just a thought.

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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 28, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
I only buy Moccasyms these days and can get them for about $70 new. As for shoes over $100, faggidaboutit.

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By ErikaNW
Oct 28, 2012
Rapping off the Matron October, 2010
+1 for Boreals - especially once resoled with C4!

I pretty much only buy on sale and take advantage if I find a killer deal in my size - if I find an especially good deal I try to buy 2 pairs. Got my Boreal Stingmas for something like $60 and have had 5-6 resoles on them - still my favorite shoe.

But yes. Agree with Locker. Shoes are way expensive at full retail.

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By pico
From Burnaby, BC
Oct 28, 2012
Montagne d'Argent
went through a pair La Sportiva Katanas (laced) in less then 2 months this summer on weekend warrioring granite slabs in Quebec.... .... Needless to say, when i'm done with the replacement pair they shipped me, i'm looking elsewhere, just my 2 cents.

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By bearbreeder
Oct 28, 2012
I wear sportivas outdoors and resole em twice on avg to amortize the cost

Sportivas arent very durable, they delaminate, the straps break, and the rubber wears out quick ... The resoles last longer ;)

Too bad they fit my feet the best

For indoors i just use some el cheapo evolves

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By Woodchuck ATC
Oct 28, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Unless you are looking for the highest performance shoe, I say just go to outlet link of many shoe companies(like MadRock) and get the last years model shoe for like 20 to60 bucks. Who cares what year model or color it is anyway!!!

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By matt davies
Oct 28, 2012
Fritz Wiessner sent 5.11 in the Gunks in leather mountaineering boots. Pretty sure he didn't have many resoles.

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 28, 2012
...
"Honestly, do you have issues keeping the aggressive design of the testarossas or hornets just that? Do all aggressive shoes become flat as a board after they've been resoled?"

Certain shoes can definitely pose a challenge. I have worked on a decent sum of aggressive shoes. So far, so good! They don't come out exactly the same and can flatten some. But overall, (Again, so far), I've kept a good turn on the fuckers.

Resoling shoes is a pretty simple process. But it involves many factors that influence the outcome.

Stinky work too!

LOL!

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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
I'd ask the same thing about $120 harnesses. (dead bird).

Since alternatives exist at lower price points, we, the collective consumer have the power. If WE do not buy $160 shoes or $120 harnesses, then the price will come down. The problem is that some people want to spend more to feel like they have something special, or at the very least don't mind, and so there you have it.

Yes, I own TC Pros.
Of course, I only paid $90-something for them...
...because the shop got sick of them sitting on the shelf when nobody would fork out $160+tax.

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By Jeff J
From Bozeman
Oct 28, 2012
Locker wrote:
"So if somebody brought in a pair of shoes, would you resole with a Five Ten rubber no matter the original model?"... Hell no! I put on whatever the customer wants and is available within my little shit for a buisness. But I almost always try and point people in the BEST direction which is TOWARDS Five Ten rubber...



I half agree with you that 5.10 rubber is the best.
I love my 5.10s on sandstone.

But for gniess and limestone I find a that LaSportiva feels stickier.

So I think that rock type play a facter as well...

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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Oct 28, 2012
At the BRC
matt davies wrote:
Fritz Wiessner sent 5.11 in the Gunks in leather mountaineering boots. Pretty sure he didn't have many resoles.

Really? Fritz was quite the climber by all reports, but this seems unlikely. Do you know which 11s?

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 28, 2012
...
"I half agree with you that 5.10 rubber is the best.
I love my 5.10s on sandstone.

But for gniess and limestone I find a that LaSportiva feels stickier.

So I think that rock type play a facter as well..."




Which Five Ten rubber in particular, and have you used both, extensively? (Onyx and C4)

One is better for smearing, friction and the likes. The other works better when a firmer rubber is in order, such as edging.

But I totally agree that rock type can dictate which rubber to choose. For strictly edging, I'd actually probably go with good old reliable Vibram XSV. That shit sticks well and edges great! But for more overall performance with the best stick (IMHO), it's either C4 or Onyx.

Almost all of the different rubbers out there are superior to what used to be on shoes not that long back.

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By Real Name Taken
Oct 28, 2012
My 5.10 Spires are still cheap and suite me just fine ;-)

I did notice my Sportiva trail runners went up $30 this year from last year. Last year they were $90 at REI and this year they are $120. It is pretty much like that across the board no matter where I look.

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By VerticalUrge
Oct 28, 2012
f$%kin obama's policies driving up energy and shoes prices. can't wait til Jan 2013

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By Jake Carroll
From Fort Collins
Oct 28, 2012
The Monastery
VerticalUrge wrote:
f$%kin obama's policies driving up energy and shoes prices. can't wait til Jan 2013


Troll.

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By Cragophilia
Oct 28, 2012
About to do a reachy static move to a sloper finge...
Awww boo-hoo. Sounds like a bunch of bums bitching cause they dont have any money. You can either suck it up or just buy used shoes and have crappy edges. Your choice.

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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Oct 28, 2012
Middle
I sold a pair of barely used Spires for $15 or $20 and my wife picked up some barely used Mythos at the used gear shop in town for $25. If you don't want to spend $150 you don't have to.

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By Jeremy Bauman
From Lakewood, CO
Oct 29, 2012
Climbing the headwall of Second Comming
NickinCO wrote:
Has the price of rubber went up or wtf?



Yes.
Price of rubber from 2002-2012
Price of rubber from 2002-2012




indexmundi.com/commodities/?co...

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By Fluoride
From Los Angeles, CA
Oct 29, 2012
Galen's Crack.  Tuolumne.  Hell yes!
Locker, the ones I got were BRAND NEW. Just got them at the outlet so they were half off.

The used and demo ones were much cheaper.

Just happy to finally have a pair of Anasazi's finally that I didn't have to pay and arm and a leg for.

Oh, and my Mythos are going to need resoling in a few months. Will send them your way. Steve's TC pro's need resoling, on their way to you.

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Oct 29, 2012
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
If I am climbing steep sport, I just go barefoot. It actually makes a lot of climbs easier.

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By wivanoff
Oct 29, 2012
High Exposure
Mark E Dixon wrote:
Really? Fritz was quite the climber by all reports, but this seems unlikely. Do you know which 11s?


I dunno about 5.11 but I remembered seeing this shot of him on Never Never Land (5.10)

supertopo.com/climbing/thread....

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By TBlom
Oct 29, 2012
About 13-14 years ago, Miuras were about $140-150. Mythos were also expensive. The going rate for any 'all day' shoe was ~$150.
$170 is a lot for shoes... Almost what I would pay for ski boots!

Considering that gas used to be <$2.00/gallon, shoe prices seem pretty stable.

A few years back the Evolves (worst smelling shoe ever) and Mad Rocks really brought shoe prices down. And all the sudden it was easy to find shoes <$100. Used to be the only way to get shoes less than $100 was on pro-deals, clearances, or on slippers.

The fact that people will pay so much just proves what yuppies scum we are becoming!

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By SeaJellie
From Ann Arbor, MI
Oct 29, 2012
Adrift on the oceans.
+1 to reboot - I think Vibram Grip is awesome, and wish we could get resoles with it. I don't care that it wears faster; for my top end shoes that I only wear on the hardest routes for me, it's worth it.

Locker, if you ever import some of that stuff under the radar - put me on your list! I've seen folks buy the minimum order of sheets, and have friends ship it here, etc..... just an idea.... three resoles ready for ya, size 14 so that's a few sheets right there...hah.

Boreal and Scarpa do make very well built shoes - but fit is everything and it is personal, and in recents years Sportiva has done a better job for me. I heard a rumor that Scarpa and Sportiva swapped lead shoe designers a few years back, so maybe that's why; I used to love Scarpas.

As for shoes prices, you can blame weenies like me in the midwest. I was so pissed off about having to move here and losing tons of time in the mountains, that I now buy myself only the most expensive toys (and, maybe occasionally, that means it's also the best). oh well.

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 29, 2012
Tevis Blom wrote:
About 13-14 years ago, Miuras were about $140-150. Mythos were also expensive. The going rate for any 'all day' shoe was ~$150. $170 is a lot for shoes... Almost what I would pay for ski boots! Considering that gas used to be <$2.00/gallon, shoe prices seem pretty stable. A few years back the Evolves (worst smelling shoe ever) and Mad Rocks really brought shoe prices down. And all the sudden it was easy to find shoes <$100. Used to be the only way to get shoes less than $100 was on pro-deals, clearances, or on slippers. The fact that people will pay so much just proves what yuppies scum we are becoming!


This. I paid $150 for a pair of shitty Boreal Equinoxes as my first shoe 10+ years ago.

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