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Shoe prices are OUT OF HAND!!!
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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 28, 2012
...

Just a RANT to say that I think that the prices of climbing shoes are absolutely fuking RIDICULOUS! They have gotten so damned HIGH, they must be HIGH or something.

I personally WILL NOT pay the high prices and instead shop for good USED deal via Ebay, Craigslist, HERE on Mt Proj.

TC Pros = $160.00..

Boreal Aces in the SAME range...

You've fuking GOT to be kidding...

;-/

locker
owner/resoler
PositiveResoles.com


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 28, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

I agree, I bought katana laces when they first came out for $99. Now they're $165 on backcountry?! Has the price of rubber went up or wtf?


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By michaeltarne
Oct 28, 2012

Or Solutions...$170? They're good, but not that good.


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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Oct 28, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

Should all just stick with our current shoes and send them to Locker when they gets holes...


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 28, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

All the same shoes were way cheaper a couple years ago.. that's what I mean, what changed?


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 28, 2012
...

"Has the price of rubber went up or wtf?"...

Actually, yes!

The price of rubber has in fact gone up. But not enough to justify the super HIGH fuking prices of climbing shoes currently being sold.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 28, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

so it's the shoe companies capitalizing on a larger market as climbing becomes more popular and people with actual jobs are buying gear?


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 28, 2012
...

"so it's the shoe companies capitalizing on a larger market as climbing becomes more popular and people with actual jobs are buying gear?"...


YES!

It's most likely due to popularity and recognizing that it is a specialty market where they can jack the fuk out of the prices and there ain't shit you can do about it...

Except buy USED or wait for BARGAINS...





EDITED:

Two pairs of shoes cost about as much as a rack...

FUCKING RIDICULOUS!!!


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By RockinOut
From NY, NY
Oct 28, 2012
Gear

Hmm maybe instead of buying new shoes I`ll just send them to you to get resoled.... business must be slow. lol

Locker wrote:
TC Pros = $160.00.. Boreal Aces in the SAME range... You've fuking GOT to be kidding... ;-/ locker owner/resoler PositiveResoles.com


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 28, 2012
...

"business must be slow. lol"...

Just the opposite! No doubt for the reasons already posted on this thread.

;-)


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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Oct 28, 2012
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH

Locker wrote:
"business must be slow. lol"... Just the opposite! No doubt for the reasons already posted on this thread. ;-)


I think he means you have all the free time to waste our time on MP, therefore you must not be too busy at work.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 28, 2012
...

"I think he means you have all the free time to waste our time on MP, therefore you must not be too busy at work."...


I'm wasting YOUR time?

Wow! I have such POWER...



And it's SUNDAY...

Why the fuk should I be working? (Should be CLIMBING, but healing a bit at the moment from too much climbing... ;-)


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By Jake Carroll
From Fort Collins
Oct 28, 2012
The Monastery

The way I look at it is that there are three shoe companies that actually matter: Sportiva, five ten, and evolv. Maybe scarpa... But that's a stretch. Personally, after owning several models of shoes from each of these companies, I think that Sportivas are the most durable, functional, and comfortable. And I think that many climbers would agree with me there.
However, I am not currently climbing in Sportivas because it is nearly impossible to find them for under $100. Instead, I am climbing in five ten teams because you can find them for $60 new. Sure, they retail for about the same as Sportiva, but:
1. Nobody will pay that for rubber that is going to wear out in 3 months, and
2. when Adidas bought five ten, they sold off a ton of their excess stock for trade price, which flooded the market.
A buddy of mine who owns a gear shop bought five ten teams and projects for $20-30/pair. In conclusion, I agree with you about crazy shoe prices, but maybe we have to accept that Sportiva thinks they're the arcteryx of the climbing shoes world. These companies are all staying in business, so there has to be some idiot out there who is paying retail.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 28, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

I agree with everything but sportivas being the most durable... TC pros are not durable, I think evolv and 5.10 both win in that category.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 28, 2012
...

"These companies are all staying in business, so there has to be some idiot out there who is paying retail."

With most of the companies following in suit, what choice is there?


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 28, 2012
...

"The way I look at it is that there are three shoe companies that actually matter: Sportiva, five ten, and evolv."...

You're young, so you're excused!

;-)


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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Oct 28, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

NickinCO wrote:
I agree with everything but sportivas being the most durable... TC pros are not durable, I think evolv and 5.10 both win in that category.


I totally agree with you on the five-ten rubber. Stealth seems to last forever. But my first shoes were evolvs and I wore through that rubber in like 3 months. Could've been all the excess gym climbing though.

I would like to point out to Jake that Scarpa makes some decent shoes too. I recently got a pair of vapor s for face and roof climbing and really love them. Not too sure about the life of their rubber yet though. So far so good.


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By Jake Carroll
From Fort Collins
Oct 28, 2012
The Monastery

Locker wrote:
You're young, so you're excused! ;-)


Did I forget somebody?
I don't really know anybody who climbs in Mad Rock (although I would recommend them for somebody's first shoe), Boreal, Edelrid, Bufo, Millet, Red Chili, or Mammut.

While I have not had the time, money, or interest to try all of these shoe companies, it seems like they are just trying to (unsuccessfully) expand into or enter the (American)climbing shoe market.

NickinCO wrote:
I agree with everything but sportivas being the most durable... TC pros are not durable, I think evolv and 5.10 both win in that category.


Nick, I haven't had any experience with TC Pros yet, but I have had a pair of Testarossas, Miuras, and Speedsters that have lasted over a year, which greatly outlasted my past pairs of Five Ten and Evolvs, but that is just my personal experience.

Jon Zucco wrote:
I would like to point out to Jake that Scarpa makes some decent shoes too. I recently got a pair of vapor s for face and roof climbing and really love them. Not too sure about the life of their rubber yet though. So far so good.


Sweet! I owned a similar pair of Scarpa Stix, but was not impressed because I could not find a size that fit my foot correctly. I totally recognize that my opinion is biased. A few years ago, there were a lot of strong people climbing in the Boosters (I guess they were considered pretty innovative), so I definitely don't rule out Scarpa for potential.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 28, 2012
...

IMHO the two BEST shoe companies are Boreal and Scarpa. They make the BEST high quality shoe (But each has shitty rubber!).

Only TWO rubbers (Not going to go there!) rate up there in my book...

BOTH made by Five Ten...

Onyx and C4...

The rest are only TRYING to reach that quality and FAILING!


EDITED:

I should be clear. I am talking from a resolers perspective here as well as an avid climber that does in fact only wear either Boreals or Scarpas...

From a resolers point of view, I base my opinions on how easy it is to work on a pair.

Of ALL the shoe companies, NONE have anywhere near the DELAMINATION issues as La Sportiva. Without exageration, I'd say that near 90% are delaminating when they're sent in to the shop. NOT true of ALL the other shoe companies. ONLY with La Sportiva. Has to be the GLUE they use. MUST be different from the others.



Check your La Sportiva shows around the mid sole and usually you'll see it starting...


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By Jake Carroll
From Fort Collins
Oct 28, 2012
The Monastery

Locker wrote:
Only TWO rubbers (Not going to go there!) rate up there in my book... BOTH made by Five Ten... Onyx and C4... The rest are only TRYING to reach that quality and FAILING!


I think that actually says something coming from somebody who resoles shoes! Thanks Locker.

So if somebody brought in a pair of shoes, would you resole with a Five Ten rubber no matter the original model?


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 28, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

Locker wrote:
IMHO the two BEST shoe companies are Boreal and Scarpa. They make the BEST high quality shoe (But each has shitty rubber!). Only TWO rubbers (Not going to go there!) rate up there in my book... BOTH made by Five Ten... Onyx and C4... The rest are only TRYING to reach that quality and FAILING!


I too prefer C4 but check this out..

climbing.about.com/b/2008/12/15/new-study-which-shoe-rubber->>>


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 28, 2012
...

"So if somebody brought in a pair of shoes, would you resole with a Five Ten rubber no matter the original model?"...

Hell no!

I put on whatever the customer wants and is available within my little shit for a buisness.

But I almost always try and point people in the BEST direction which is TOWARDS Five Ten rubber...


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By Fluoride
From Los Angeles, CA
Oct 28, 2012
Galen's Crack.  Tuolumne.  Hell yes!

Just got a pair of Five Ten Anasazi velcros at their Redlands outlet on Friday for $95. Retail is $155.

If you live in SoCal and are heading out to JT on a Thursday or Friday afternoon it's worth stopping by their HQ. Shoes are around half off, brand new.

Cause year, shoe prices are unreal now.

Even though Scarpa has come out with the Helix for $99. Got a pair a a demo and like them. Yet will still have to get the LS Mythos resoled cause a new pair of those would be too expensive.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 28, 2012
...

"Just got a pair of Five Ten Anasazi velcros at their Redlands outlet on Friday for $95. Retail is $155.

If you live in SoCal and are heading out to JT on a Thursday or Friday afternoon it's worth stopping by their HQ. Shoes are around half off, brand new."


Oh yeah!

Five Ten has that "Seconds" thing on fridays...

I forgot about that! Good info Beth!


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By Jeremy Hand
Oct 28, 2012
slopey

I currently own the following pairs of shoes:
5.10 Hornets
5.10 Quantums
Scarpa Boosters
LS Testarossas
Evolv Shamans
Evolv Pontas
and have had 2 pairs of LS muiras

I've experienced way more longevity with the Vibram rubber compared to the 5.10...

I prefer climbing with vibram than stealth, in performance and durability and prefer stealth to evolv.


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By Jeremy Hand
Oct 28, 2012
slopey

Locker, I am not sure if you recall me inquiring about some resoles and I told you I'd send you some pictures... I know I dropped the ball and still haven't done that yet but once I'm committed to the resoles I'm sending them your way.

Honestly, do you have issues keeping the aggressive design of the testarossas or hornets just that? Do all aggressive shoes become flat as a board after they've been resoled?

Disclaimer: I do understand it is not possible to keep the out of the box aggressive nature of a shoe in tact after a resole


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