Shockley's Ceiling 

The crux roof was the scene of my first ever leader fall, in Fall 1977, onto an archaic pin. I was sure that I was going to die. Its rating, at 5.6, is a sandbag, but it's not the only sandbag at the Gunks in this rating range. It's an amazing climb. A truly high-quality outing for the solid 5.8 leader who is experienced with traditional gear. A potential horror fest for anyone else.

The popularity of this route has a lot more to do with the classic photo-op at the roof and the proximity to the road than the climbing itself. It's an OK route but the crux is a real grunt (well protected though!) and definitely not really 5.6. The rest of the route is OK but not classic. It's also notorious for long waits at the crux pitch--I've seen parties take hours to clear this. Note that you can easily bail to the left ("Shockley's Without") instead of waiting for some poor panicked novice that keeps swinging into space.

Waiting in line for Shockley's is a waste of time--there are plenty of better lines at the grade. If you want another classic 5.6 in the area, go for Arch / Wrist.

A definite must for anyone looking for the Gunks experience. Hit it during the week. Start on the first pitch of Strictly from Nowhere to the top of the block and then right onto Shockley's. The roof move is not that difficult. All of 5.6+. I think the tougher move is just before topping out, jamming the wide crack when you are out of your #2 cause you used it under the roof.

I used to use a #7 Metolius Quad Cam at the crux. Fun climbing!!!

Love the crux on this!!!!!!!!

I think the Gunks Select Guidebook has it at a 5.7. It sucks for short people. My bro being shorter than I (I am only 5'9") always had trouble reaching up for a good hold.

Excellent climb. Better than Hi E, cause the 2nd pitch was a blast too. It's a Gunks 5.6, meaning there are great hand holds from the bottom to the top. I slammed a cam into the roof's crack and pulled over it, go for it, the gear is there...

But I did noticed just below the roof there was a very old bag of sand tucked into the crack.

Seeing these pics of Shockley's is great. The look down perspective of the roof move gives you a new feel for Gunks climbing.
I have always thought that the crux of this climb are the final top out moves, rounded, steep and they sneak up on you after you have done the roof pull.
This climb used to be rated 5.5!
Whatever the grade, nice pics, cool climb.

doing the last crux pitch in the pouring rain was fantastically memorable. what a great route.

In my opinion, the first two pitches of this route aren't junk - they're fun Gunks 5.3 and worth doing! You can easily string together the first two pitches to the GT ledge if you have double ropes.

Overall, a good route.

At 5'2", I found the first roof crux very doable. I thought the second crux was harder!

All climbing leading up to the roof is fun, happy and easy.

Overrated. The ceiling is the highlight of the climb, making it a 3-4 pitch one move wonder. Sure, there's a couple interesting spots, but compared to the rest of the climbing at the Gunks this is all hype.

It might be worth noting that the route is named for one of the contributors to the invention of the semi-conductor, and eventually the integrated circuit, which we all are lucky enough to utilize whilst contributing to, and consuming, this site!

Awesome climb. Do it in the "classic" way. In the buff.

just climbed this for the first time since 2004 when I got caught in a rainstorm on the third pitch. 5.6 seems about right but maybe tougher for shorter climbers who are not used to hand jams. Taller climbers need not hand jam (if it's dry). superb gear. The optional belay above the ceiling makes life easier if you have any concerns about your second and permits good photos.