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Motorboat Rock
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Bastard's Moan 
Beginner's Bitch 
Ben's Dilemma 
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Motorboat 
Navy Route 
Shocker 
Unsorted Routes:

Shocker 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scott Harris
Page Views: 3,227
Submitted By: camhead on Jun 25, 2008
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Ben trying hard not to swing off the laybacks on S...

Description 

Some slabby face moves lead to a powerful undercling, then a BIG reach or deadpoint to the base of a beautiful, but short, arching fingercrack layback flake.

This route got an X in the original guidebook, although the crux is pretty protectable. The techy smears in the upper half make it a pretty heady lead, though.


Location 

On the front side of Motorboat Rock, between two moderate cracks.


Protection 

stoppers, tcu's, and a red camalot for the bottom. For an anchor you can use a variety of cams from .75 camalot down to fingers sizes.



Photos of Shocker Slideshow Add Photo
Ben, setting up for the long move off the undercling
Ben, setting up for the long move off the undercli...
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By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2008

This route is by no means X rated

I led this in 2005 on 3 pieces of gear (hand size in the undercling, small cam and a stopper above, then whatever for anchor.) and no groundfall potential. just hard to place gear while laybacking.

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Jul 17, 2008

Scott Harris did the FA, and yes, by todays standard it is not much of an X rated route. Still heady as you said and a great job by ya'll anyways.

By Nelson
From: FT Carson
Apr 5, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Ya I placed a Green Ballnut after the fling for the upper crack. I would love to solo it.

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Apr 5, 2009

Have someone shoot video when you do Nelson.