Shocker 5.12a R
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| Type: | Trad, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Scott Harris |
| Submitted By: | camhead on Jun 25, 2008 |
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Ben trying hard not to swing off the laybacks on S...
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Description Some slabby face moves lead to a powerful undercling, then a BIG reach or deadpoint to the base of a beautiful, but short, arching fingercrack layback flake.
This route got an X in the original guidebook, although the crux is pretty protectable. The techy smears in the upper half make it a pretty heady lead, though.
Location On the front side of Motorboat Rock, between two moderate cracks.
Protection stoppers, tcu's, and a red camalot for the bottom. For an anchor you can use a variety of cams from .75 camalot down to fingers sizes.
Ben, setting up for the long move off the undercli...
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By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2008
| This route is by no means X rated
I led this in 2005 on 3 pieces of gear (hand size in the undercling, small cam and a stopper above, then whatever for anchor.) and no groundfall potential. just hard to place gear while laybacking. |
By Hank the Tank
From: Golden, CO
Jul 17, 2008
| Scott Harris did the FA, and yes, by todays standard it is not much of an X rated route. Still heady as you said and a great job by ya'll anyways. |
By Nelson
From: FT Carson
Apr 5, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| Ya I placed a Green Ballnut after the fling for the upper crack. I would love to solo it. |
By Hank the Tank
From: Golden, CO
Apr 5, 2009
| Have someone shoot video when you do Nelson. |
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