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Shock Therapy 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ward Smith
Page Views: 1,857
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Rachel steeping

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great moves angling left on big awkward holds gain the first couple of bolts. Then work straight up and a bit right on very incut jugs with no feet. deadpoint up to a bad crimp adjust your feet then dyno for the horizontal break and clip the last bolt. Make a wierd traverse move left and then clip the anchors.
Very cool climb.

I can't wait to finally tick this one.

Little video:

Location 

Leftmost route on Pulse Wall.

Protection 

4 Bolts to Anchor


Photos of Shock Therapy Slideshow Add Photo
Ladd Raine holding on to the bad crimp and setting...
Ladd Raine holding on to the bad crimp and setting...
Samuel Todzia setting up for the deadpoint to the ...
Samuel Todzia setting up for the deadpoint to the ...
Ladd Raine making the iron cross move to the fin h...
Ladd Raine making the iron cross move to the fin h...
Ladd Raine making the move off of the good hands a...
Ladd Raine making the move off of the good hands a...
Keith Nadeau, action hero...
Keith Nadeau, action hero...
Rachel crankin' the opening moves
Rachel crankin' the opening moves
Ladd Raine finishing up this climb with one more h...
Ladd Raine finishing up this climb with one more h...
Samuel Todiza making the hard cross-over.
Samuel Todiza making the hard cross-over.
keith in the upper business...
keith in the upper business...

Comments on Shock Therapy Add Comment
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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

There is alternate beta for this route. The crux deadpoint off of the left hand crimp can be done by switching hands and using the left hand crimp with your right hand instead. You can then keep your foot underneath you on the fin/ledge and lock-off to a high left crimp before going right again. I used this beta (the other way felt harder to me). Great line either way! Ideal for boulderers...

: )

-Colin
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Sep 12, 2007
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Hey Colin--

I used 7 cheater stones, skipped the 2 stick-clipped draws and grabbed the finishing jug...then I rung the bell at the top to signify my send to the rest of Rumney!
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 12, 2007
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

ahh, yes, the "assisted-jump-start-to-the-finish" beta....

I intend to send The Fly that way
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 4, 2007

the heel toe cam was the key for me and it involved no hucking at all... a very fun route and im not a boulderer but rather a techy route climber.... i like to climb bouldery routes and find beta to make it look all flowing and smooth... fun times...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 27, 2013