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 ADVANCED
Sports Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albatross, The T 
Home Field Advantage T 
Killuminati T,S 
Leaner, The T 
Shock the Monkey T 

Shock the Monkey 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Mark Rolofson, 1981
Page Views: 572
Submitted By: Ben Schmitt on Nov 17, 2008

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Description 

This exceptionally fine steep crack is any trad climbers dream, with great gear, hard moves, clean rock, safe falls, and best of all pump factor that keeps you desperatly jamming with lactic acid bloated arms until the very end. Every gear placement can be seen from the ground, taking finger-to hand sized peices in the lower roof, do a fun technical steep crux, thread your fingers the natural ring and place a fist sized piece, and traverse out the last part of the roof doing gaston hand jams and clever footwork to pull around the corner to a nice 5.7 crack to the top.

Location 

Right in the middle of the sport cliff, this is the obvious, steep roof crack just left of Fiddler Under the Roof, and right of The Albatross.

Protection 

(In BD Camalots) doubles from #0.3s to #2s, and one #3 (fist-sized) for the middle of the roof. There is an old sling at the top, which is looking a bit worst for wear, with a quicklink. Bolted anchor anyone? Or shall we replace it with another sling to rot?


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By Drew Thayer
From: Durango, CO
May 3, 2011

This excellent route now has two good bolts with hangers at the anchor.
By chipacles
May 28, 2012

This route may have just gotten harder: I pulled a rather large piece off from inside the crack just before the route goes vertical. It's now wide enough for, probably, a #4 Camalot. Not sure how that will affect the grade, but it freaked me out...glad my belayer was way under the overhang.