Shock-loading slings, daisy chains, PAS...

I'm pretty new to climbing but am at the point where some of the nuances start popping up...

A friend was recently telling me that the BD Dynex and Mammut Dyneema slings/runners can't handle a shock-load and that I should go with nylon because it can handle a shock-load better than the thinner Dynex/Dyneema - is that accurate? I know that nylon is more durable but am specifically interested in shock-loading.

I'm aware that daisy chains aren't made for shock-loading but am wondering about the adjustable PAS (i.e. the Metolius adjustable: metoliusclimbing.com/pas_pe…. Does anyone know their durability in terms of shock-loading?

I know that numerous factors can play into each situation but general advice/tips/resources related to slings and personal anchors would be appreciated.

Thinking about ditching the adjustable PAS and getting comfortable using my cordolette in its place b/c that seems more functional. Thoughts?

Cotton wrote:IThinking about ditching the adjustable PAS and getting comfortable using my cordolette in its place b/c that seems more functional.

Hangdog on your PAS system; don't try to advance up or bounce causing a shock load. The static runners keep you right in place for setting/ cleaning a route. If you are on a cordelette, you get more bounce and stretch at the anchor point. People did it without the PAS system for decades, so it can't be all that important to only use PAS now days on sport routes. Just convenient, ready position, less bulky than a short cordelette rope with it's big knot and all. Just use care and common sense.

Some good reads on the matter.

riggingforrescue.com/reLany…

riggingforrescue.com/reLany…

Good info - thanks everyone.

The more I've researched it this past week, the more I've realized how much of a "luxury item" and/or overkill the PAS systems are.

i just picked up a misty mountain PAS, mostly for doing multi pitch raps. seems pretty nice and is made of their 9/16th nylon so has a little shock absorption, inspires much more confidence than the 48" with knots i used to have.