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b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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Shitface 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Jim Andress 1963
Page Views: 1,803
Submitted By: Guy H. on May 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Chris Vultaggio on shitface

Description 

This fun TR is located to the right of Roseland, and is directly under the P1 bolt anchors on that climb. From the ground, weave back and forth up through bulges until you join Roseland at the end of its traverse. The crux is at about 2/3 height at a bulge with a right-leaning seam.

Location 

On the face 20' right of the right-facing corner of Roseland.

Protection 

Opinions on gear vary between "none" and "PG" but agree that the gear is small (see comments); it is easy to TR this line from the anchors on Roseland.


Photos of Shitface Slideshow Add Photo
A heel hook makes the reach easier.
A heel hook makes the reach easier.
Feeling out the crux move.
Feeling out the crux move.
Marc Gravatt nearing the top.
Marc Gravatt nearing the top.
The route starts at the bottom right of the photo, then continues pretty much up the thin crack over bulges. The crux is the highest bulge/rooflet.
BETA PHOTO: The route starts at the bottom right of the photo,...

Comments on Shitface Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kurtz
Jun 30, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
Beware of Poison Ivy patch in the rocks near the start.
By david goldstein
Jun 5, 2006

Don't waste this onsite opportunity by toproping it because you think it has no gear. This pitch protects reasonably well. The crux is well protected. After that there is a 20' runout on much easier (~5.8) ground. I'd call it PG, not R.
By Andy Choens
From: Albany, NY
Jul 27, 2008

It's a well protected lead, provided that you don't fall. I suppose it is by North Carolina standards, but by Gunks standards, this is definitely a PG/R. The crux has protection but there are substantial parts above and below the crux which are not protected, or are poorly protected.

If the lead climber regularly pulls down hard 11s or 12s it is probably PG/R leaning toward PG. If the lead climber is hit or miss on hard 10s it is PG/R leaning on the R side.
By David Stowe
Jul 28, 2008

I have to disagree with the last poster. There is enough gear to make this climb more than safe. The face below the crux may seem a bit runout, however it is easy to protect with small wires. If you don't have anything like brassies then you may be in for a nice runout, with them it totally safe. The part above the crux is only runout if you don't look around for gear. There is a very good green alien/blue tcu placement after the crux. The climbing after the crux is also significantly easier than the climbing below. If a climb is R it is R. It doesn't matter how hard you are pulling down. The gear on Shitface in not complicated or difficult to get in. If you get on this expecting gear like Ants Line then you are out of luck, but if you can lead 5.10 then there is no reason to waste this on a TR. If you have the proper gear this is 5.10 PG
By Micah M
Apr 19, 2009

I agree with Andy this is a serious lead. As a point of reference Fat City Direct gets PG13 on this site but is much safer. Itís true that the placement just below the crux is very solid, but both above and below is serious climbing on small gear that needs to be placed just right and is not all that high off the deck. I was glad I did not fall and would only recommended this route to a leader who feels confident at the grade and wants a little spice. In that case it is very nice.
By Spiro
Aug 11, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

gear is fine, if you want beta I would be happy to give it to you.
By Andrew McConnico
Oct 8, 2012

I am with Spiro on this one. The bottom half of the climb protects fine and the top half can be protected well enough - small C3s helpful. It is worth fiddling with gear on the TR.
By ECTradClimber
From: Rosendale
Apr 22, 2014

I'd agree with DG. Good gear till the crux and the rest is a walk off. If your really sketched look left for .75 c4