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Shit Howdy
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Shit Howdy 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: all
Page Views: 2,622
Submitted By: Gary Savage on Feb 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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The entire route.

Description 

This is quite a nice climb that rarely gets done. Most people never make it past the sport routes on the Cannibal Crag. The route consits of a right curving crack the follows the hillside up. The first crux comes about 15' up and involves a long reach to a nice finger lock. The second crux is a bit higher and consists of a flared fingerlock to a good hand jam. Make sure to place a piece in the alcove to protect your follower on the crux moves. Coming out of the alcove and traversing the crack to the finish is still a bit tricky.

Location 

The obvious diagonaling crack up the center of the north face.

Protection 

One .75 camalot and doubles of .50 camalots and smaller should get you up. You will need a 00 metolius for the first crux and a 0 metolius for the alcove. A #2 camalot will protect the final hand traverse.


Photos of Shit Howdy Slideshow Add Photo
Tom Walmsley getting to the crux.
Tom Walmsley getting to the crux.
DJ killin it!
DJ killin it!
Good finish.
Good finish.
Take those hand jams when you can get 'em
Take those hand jams when you can get 'em

Comments on Shit Howdy Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 28, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

really good route.

i'd recommend a set of stoppers, and a single rack to 3" with doubles in the blue metolius to green camalot sizes. i placed way more than i normally would due to the traversing nature of the route in order to protect the second- any fall could be pretty dangerous if you dont sew it up as you're really never more than 15' off the deck.
By juancho
Apr 6, 2009

I thought this was good but not outstanding. Short and the rock is not that wonderful, but still definitely worth doing.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Apr 22, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I LOVED this route! I think it's just as good as Atman or Ying and Yang. 11- is off, it's a 10D but it's good the whole way! Agreed on the traverse, you really need to sew it up for your second, if this climb were higher up on a line it'd be a classic. I thought getting established on the finger lock was definitely the crux. Ouch. Anyone done the direct finish? (the bolts?)
By Patrick Mulligan
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I agree - this is a great route with fun and unique movement. The difficulties are over quickly, but you can't let your guard down till stepping back on the ground (on how many climbs do you climb back to the ground). Ouch is right. Some tape on the finger that will take the lock would be a good idea (hint: right hand forefinger).