Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
West Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acrobat, The 
Angle Iron Traverse 
Coffin Nail 
Crimes of Passion 
Dos Equis 
Edge, The 
El Camino Real 
Fingergrip 
Fingertip Traverse 
Fingertrip 
Hangover, The 
Jensen's Jaunt 
Last Judgment 
On the Road 
Pearly Gate 
Pigs in Bondage 
Shit for Brains 
Slab, The 
Toe Tip 
Traitor Horn 
Unknown? 

Shit for Brains 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Powell, 1966
Page Views: 747
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

This is a one pitch face route, nothing special. Rappel from a tree at the end of the climb.


Protection 

Some small gear for the crack below the first bolt.



Comments on Shit for Brains Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 3, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

So-so climbing on it's own, but it can be done as an alternate first pitch to Fingertrip when that route is crowded.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 6, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

kind of odd to protect as I recall (pod or pocket), although bolts protect afterwards.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 14, 2007

The crux is pretty simple and nice to make you feel good about yourself. Once you get to the first bolt (one committing move) the rest feels very well protected. The upper face is really easy.

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 12, 2008

A #1 Friend fits just right in that pocket and is the key pro.

By tom donnelly
May 21, 2012

Adding to the namesake of this route, often the bottom is splattered in sap.