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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: scott Stevenson 1986
Page Views: 283
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 14, 2010
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This is a Gear protected link up that starts on The Skewer, Climbs a pretty corner and links up to the second half of Gunboat Diplomacy.

Basically climb 2 bolts on the Skewer move left around the corner in to a nice corner with a seam running up it. Make a few easy moves before getting to a decent stance where this get blank. Plug in a few small nuts and pull the crux. I did a lunge/dyno to a sloping edge then on to easier holds and bolts on Gunboat to it's anchor.

Shorter folks will have a hard time on crux i think.

Easily TRed after doing Gunboat but use a few directionals.


Between the two routes in the description.


a few small nuts and a micro cam or two and 10 or 12 draws.

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 29, 2011

I think this is actually a really good route, but it seldom gets done since you need gear for the corner in the middle. Scott had an eye for good lines. Being tall and limber would help with this. I'm neither, so I thought I was going to split in half while stemming the beautiful orange corner. Even if you are not up for leading, it is definitely worth checking out on TR after doing Gunboat.