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Shipyard Rock
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All Tuckered Out S 
Humpbacks in Love S 
Jellyfish and Condoms T,S 
Nutra-Sweet S 
Shipyard Rock Variation T 
Spilling Waves S 
Surging Wave S 
Tsunami S 
Tuck and Roll S,TR 
Waves S 

Shipyard Rock Variation 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 252
Submitted By: Wilson On The Drums on Apr 27, 2013

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Yellow is all tuckered out/tuck and roll. red is t...
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Description 

This route is a variation of shipyard rock. Shipyard Rock proper that is featured in the guidebooks starts in the gulley between sharks fin and humpbacks in love. This variation is on the same side as all tuckered out/tuck and roll. It doesn't go all the way to the same summit as does shipyard or waves but it would be possible to head up there once on the "false" summit. The route is fun but a little run out on suspect holds near the top hence the pg-13 rating.


Location 

Locate all tuckered out. Now head up the 5th class gully as if going to nutra sweet. head right in a chimney and take this until you are at the start of tuck and roll. (it is possible to set up a top rope to all tuckered out here). now head up and just right of tuck and roll following a well defined water groove, similar to the first 40 ft of solitaire. you can tie off a knob and head up and left into the crack to place some gear with long runners and then come back down a bit to traverse right over into the water groove. take this to the summit. belay using the bomber metolious anchors of tuck and roll. a 70 meter will get you all the way back down off of those anchors.


Protection 

The first part of the climb can be soloed and go's at 5.0, the second part is 5.6 and takes .75-3 and a long sling to tie off a nice knob.



Photos of Shipyard Rock Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Yellow is all tuckered out/tuck and roll. red is the route we followed with the blue x's the approximate locations of the pro (1st being a knob 2nd being a #1 and #3 cam, use really long runners as you can see the route climbed didn't follow the gear placed.)
Yellow is all tuckered out/tuck and roll. red is t...
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By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Apr 27, 2013

If any one knows the name of the route and the FA info please chime in. I didn't see it in either rushmore guidebook (old or new) but i am certain that this must have been climbed in the past.

By Ron Yahne
May 18, 2013

We did that line back in the 70's. Didn't give it a name. Arete to the right is higher quality but lacks pro. Feel free to put some on it if you wish.