Shipwrecked 

I'm surprised folks only give this 3 stars. What more does a route have to do to satisfy one's thirst?

The new guidebook uses a three star system. If I was using a four star system it would have four stars. I think this climb is one of the most aesthetic sport routes in AZ or NM.

Middle part is too easy to warrant 4 stars IMHO. It's a slightly weak 3 stars for me.

Aesthetically speaking, this route is excellent. I think it would get a perfect rating on any scale, if it did not back off after the monos and up the flake before hitting the endurance crux. It stands as one of my favorite onsights. I did American Psycho OS the same day, and was nowhere near as psyched. The only thing to top Shipwrecked, is Goliath...for a similar grade.

2 yrs to the day I finally sent this thing Sat 5/23/09! Definitely gets my vote for one of the best routes I've ever done.

Gotta agree with Mono. The respite you get after the low technical crux offers little in the way of meaningful recovery, especially given the pumpiness of the top section. Charging through the mid-section efficiently and enjoying its airy bolt spacing added to the experience for me rather than detracting. I have yet to hear somebody complain that they had too much energy left when they clipped the anchors after the final bulge.

I think I get a knee bar up there and that really helps.

What don't you get a knee bar on, Rhicard?

Replaced missing hanger at 1st bolt. Bolt appeared ok so I don't know why the hanger was missing. Maybe the old hanger finally gave up? Thanks to JB for donating the hardware.

Simply outstanding. Great technical climbing down low to endurance climbing up high. The more powerful climbing down low provides a nice change of pace compared to the enduro climbing found on most of the other Tower routes.

DTP mentions in the route description that you can avoid the monos on this thing, but I'm not sure how this would be accomplished without traversing a ways right or left (or perhaps having sick enough pinch strength to yard on the sloper between the monos). Furthermore, I am not much of a bouldery climber and I thought the mono sequence could be executed without having to pull particularly hard. Moreover, the mono sequence was superb climbing and I wouldn't skip it even if I could.

DTP may have meant what I learned when I did it thanks to beta from a friend of mine. If you use the horizontal correctly and your feet well you only need to use one of the monos and it becomes more of a balance move than a powerful tendon ripping affair. Took a bit to figure out that if I turned one of my heels 45 degrees I could use the middle pocket (I think) without hurting my finger. One of the reasons I love climbing is subtle things like that make a move so much easier.

I definitely agree with EFR about subtle body english taking the sting out of the mono sequence....you really shouldn't need to get burly there.

From DTP's comment, it sounds like we use the same holds (and yes, the right pocket is only a mono for me). That's a proud onsight DTP, as I thought Shipwrecked required good reading skills, technical climbing on the lower wall, and endurance to finish out...all of 12c IMHO. The grade is a possible onsight for me and while I pumped out before the final bolt on the upper headwall, I was so psyched on the route quality that I was still all smiles.

One can actually skip BOTH mono pockets, I've seen it done by someone with an aversion to small pockets, not that I'm saying it is easier...