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South/Southeast (Right) Face
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Shipwrecked S 

Shipwrecked 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Geoff Weigand, early 1990s
Page Views: 2,970
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jul 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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The final moves to the anchors are tricky and just...

Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Powerful start to some technical pocket pulling. After this you get a good rest to an endurance finish. Yes the mono's can be avoided at the bottom, and don't grab the chains at the finish.

Location 

Between Golden Stairs and Flotsam and Jetsam.

Protection 

9 Bolts + Anchors


Photos of Shipwrecked Slideshow Add Photo
What monos
What monos
Dara's silk aerials
Dara's silk aerials
Jordan surviving Shipwrecked
Jordan surviving Shipwrecked
Dara with some new beta for Shipwrecked.
Dara with some new beta for Shipwrecked.
Resting after the first crux. <br />Photo by Tony Sartin.
Resting after the first crux.
Photo by Tony Sartin...
Steep, long and very pumpy!
Steep, long and very pumpy!
Easier climbing in the middle portion of the route. <br />Photo by Tony Sartin.
Easier climbing in the middle portion of the route...
Trying to manage the pump on the upper headwall. Unfortunately, my onsight attempt ended a little bit further up. <br />Photo by Tony Sartin.
Trying to manage the pump on the upper headwall. U...

Comments on Shipwrecked Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 3, 2011
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 10, 2006
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I'm surprised folks only give this 3 stars. What more does a route have to do to satisfy one's thirst?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 18, 2006

The new guidebook uses a three star system. If I was using a four star system it would have four stars. I think this climb is one of the most aesthetic sport routes in AZ or NM.
By jbak
Jan 29, 2008

Middle part is too easy to warrant 4 stars IMHO. It's a slightly weak 3 stars for me.
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 12, 2009

Aesthetically speaking, this route is excellent. I think it would get a perfect rating on any scale, if it did not back off after the monos and up the flake before hitting the endurance crux. It stands as one of my favorite onsights. I did American Psycho OS the same day, and was nowhere near as psyched. The only thing to top Shipwrecked, is Goliath...for a similar grade.
By Chris Bastek
May 27, 2009

2 yrs to the day I finally sent this thing Sat 5/23/09! Definitely gets my vote for one of the best routes I've ever done.
By Dave Wachter
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Gotta agree with Mono. The respite you get after the low technical crux offers little in the way of meaningful recovery, especially given the pumpiness of the top section. Charging through the mid-section efficiently and enjoying its airy bolt spacing added to the experience for me rather than detracting. I have yet to hear somebody complain that they had too much energy left when they clipped the anchors after the final bulge.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 10, 2009

I think I get a knee bar up there and that really helps.
By Chelsea Cook
Dec 10, 2009

What don't you get a knee bar on, Rhicard?
By WSnyder
Jul 11, 2010

Replaced missing hanger at 1st bolt. Bolt appeared ok so I don't know why the hanger was missing. Maybe the old hanger finally gave up? Thanks to JB for donating the hardware.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 26, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Simply outstanding. Great technical climbing down low to endurance climbing up high. The more powerful climbing down low provides a nice change of pace compared to the enduro climbing found on most of the other Tower routes.

DTP mentions in the route description that you can avoid the monos on this thing, but I'm not sure how this would be accomplished without traversing a ways right or left (or perhaps having sick enough pinch strength to yard on the sloper between the monos). Furthermore, I am not much of a bouldery climber and I thought the mono sequence could be executed without having to pull particularly hard. Moreover, the mono sequence was superb climbing and I wouldn't skip it even if I could.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 2, 2011

DTP may have meant what I learned when I did it thanks to beta from a friend of mine. If you use the horizontal correctly and your feet well you only need to use one of the monos and it becomes more of a balance move than a powerful tendon ripping affair. Took a bit to figure out that if I turned one of my heels 45 degrees I could use the middle pocket (I think) without hurting my finger. One of the reasons I love climbing is subtle things like that make a move so much easier.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 2, 2011

Resting after the first crux. <br />Photo by Tony Sartin.
Resting after the first crux.
Photo by Tony Sartin.

It's been almost 5 years now but what I can remember from looking at the attached photo is:
From the good horizontal jug rail I went up right hand to the hold that is near J. Albers forehead. I was able to get two fingers in this shallow hold (maybe most people can only use this as a mono). Then I went up left hand to another small hold (shown just above J. Alber's head), then went up (I think rt hand) to the pocket jugs.

This was one of my most memorable onsights. At the anchors I was so pumped and throwing to tiny pockets so hard that I split a finger nail on my right hand down the center.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
May 2, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I definitely agree with EFR about subtle body english taking the sting out of the mono sequence....you really shouldn't need to get burly there.

From DTP's comment, it sounds like we use the same holds (and yes, the right pocket is only a mono for me). That's a proud onsight DTP, as I thought Shipwrecked required good reading skills, technical climbing on the lower wall, and endurance to finish out...all of 12c IMHO. The grade is a possible onsight for me and while I pumped out before the final bolt on the upper headwall, I was so psyched on the route quality that I was still all smiles.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
May 3, 2011

One can actually skip BOTH mono pockets, I've seen it done by someone with an aversion to small pockets, not that I'm saying it is easier...