BETA PHOTO: Ship's Prow viewed from the north side of Chasm La...
The Ship's Prow is the comparatively small crag to the south (left) of Chasm Lake on the way up to the Diamond of Long's Peak. While it seems diminutive at first glance, it's actually a good, steep cliff ranging from 300-500 feet tall -- it just looks small because of the backdrop.
The routes here are all trad, with the exception of Bologna Pony
on the far right. In 2004-6, Topher Donahue has put up some 5.13s here, Yardarms, Etch-a-Sketch, and The Keel Haul.
There is plenty of room for development especially along the continuation of South-facing side Ship's Prow which is also known as Glacier Ridge.
Descent either are done by rappel, continuing west on the ridge to the West side of Chasm Lake, or a treacherous ramp right of the Great Dihedral (consider rappels in here).
Follow the Long's Peak trail (the standard slog, aka "Long's Peak East Trail") for about 3.5 miles to a small saddle above treeline where the trail splits. Take the left fork to Chasm Lake (it's signed); you'll reach the lake in about 20 minutes from this junction.
The Ship's Prow is the obvious, prow-shaped formation just south and uphill of the lake. It sits just right of the long talus slope leading up to The Loft.
Weather station 5.3 miles from here
11 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Ship's Prow
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ship's Prow:
Portal 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PG13 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 440'
Bologna Pony 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 280'
Featured Route For Ship's Prow
Etch-A-Sketch 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c CO
: Alpine Rock
: ... : Ship's Prow
Watch for a gymnastic placement for a #0 (purple) Metolius TCU on your right at the lip of the roof that protects the 5.13 crux. After the belay, (1 bolt and pin) look for a 1.25" cam up to the left before traversing right into the runout 5.12 3rd pitch. The cruxes on this climb are spicy, but the falls are clean even if your pants are not....Tommy said this route and nearby Keel Haul and Yard Arms are the best naturally protected face climbs he's ever done. T...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Ship's Prow
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2003
The walk off from this is difficult to find, then at best, loose and dangerous. As well, the noted downclimb of Gangplank's top pitch (5.7, loose) to reach Ship Of Fools is not [recommended]. With this in mind, we took Gillett's suggestion in his recent book to heart and put in an anchor up top. No bolts were required, as this was done on hexes and slings. Lower raps were also rebuilt or reinforced. The last rap still needs a 20' webbing around the big flake to back up the cable. Sorry, I was out of stuff when we arrived.
It is presently possible to descend the formation safely via rappel on Ship Of Fools. Before you "booty" this gear, please consider the intent of those who placed it as a community service. The new station is not at all visible from anywhere but where it stands and is not an eyesore. As well, if you take the gear, you'll end up doing a nasty loose downclimb 450' up, or walking off the back side. I've done that before and it sucks- the objective hazard of loose rock and gravel on slopes after last year's slide is not very reasonable.