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|Lat, Long: ||40.2543, -105.605 Map Incorrect?
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|Administrators: ||Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman|
|Submitted By: ||Pinklebear on Jul 30, 2002|
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BETA PHOTO: Ship's Prow viewed from the north side of Chasm La...
The Ship's Prow is the comparatively small crag to the south (left) of Chasm Lake on the way up to the Diamond of Long's Peak. While it seems diminutive at first glance, it's actually a good, steep cliff ranging from 300-500 feet tall -- it just looks small because of the backdrop.
The routes here are all trad, with the exception of Bologna Pony and Sarchasm on the far right. In 2004-6, Topher Donahue has put up some 5.13s here, Yardarms, Etch-a-Sketch, and The Keel Haul.
There is plenty of room for development especially along the continuation of South-facing side Ship's Prow which is also known as Glacier Ridge.
Descent either are done by rappel, continuing west on the ridge to the West side of Chasm Lake, or a treacherous ramp right of the Great Dihedral (consider rappels in here).
Follow the Long's Peak trail (the standard slog, aka "Long's Peak East Trail") for about 3.5 miles to a small saddle above treeline where the trail splits. Take the left fork to Chasm Lake (it's signed); you'll reach the lake in about 20 minutes from this junction.
The Ship's Prow is the obvious, prow-shaped formation just south and uphill of the lake. It sits just right of the long talus slope leading up to The Loft.
11 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Ship's Prow
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ship's Prow:
Portal 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
PG13 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 440'
Man Overboard 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
R Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 130'
Ship Of Fools 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
PG13 Trad, Sport, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450'
Bologna Pony 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 280'
Yard Arms 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ E7 6c Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300'
Etch-A-Sketch 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ E7 6c Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300'
Keel Haul 5.13 8a 29 X- E7 6c Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300'
Sarchasm 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ E8 7a Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'
Featured Route For Ship's Prow
Bologna Pony 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b CO
: Alpine Rock
: ... : Ship's Prow
This is an airy, exposed but totally safe journey up the impressive hanging arete on the far right side of the Ship's Prow (the north-facing side just above Chasm Lake). An awesome route in its own right, this is also a good Plan B tick if things are looking wet and/or ominous on the Diamond.P1: (12a) Though the cracks on the sunny east side of the arete beckon, the first pitch actually climbs a thin, tips splitter around the right side of the arete, on the north-facing wall. Climb a 1.5" crack ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
News and Events For Ship's Prow
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Ships Prow north side above Chasm Lake
BETA PHOTO: Ships prow as seen from east ridge of Meeker
Eerie photo, looks like a Ship's prow coming throu...
Ship's Prow in the clouds.
BETA PHOTO: The South Face of Ship's Prow.
Ship's Prow from the North East end of Chasm Lake.
Ship's Prow from MLW.
Ship's Prow in November 09.
Ship's Prow on early morning approach to Long's Ea...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2003
The walk off from this is difficult to find, then at best, loose and dangerous. As well, the noted downclimb of Gangplank's top pitch (5.7, loose) to reach Ship Of Fools is not [recommended]. With this in mind, we took Gillett's suggestion in his recent book to heart and put in an anchor up top. No bolts were required, as this was done on hexes and slings. Lower raps were also rebuilt or reinforced. The last rap still needs a 20' webbing around the big flake to back up the cable. Sorry, I was out of stuff when we arrived.
It is presently possible to descend the formation safely via rappel on Ship Of Fools. Before you "booty" this gear, please consider the intent of those who placed it as a community service. The new station is not at all visible from anywhere but where it stands and is not an eyesore. As well, if you take the gear, you'll end up doing a nasty loose downclimb 450' up, or walking off the back side. I've done that before and it sucks- the objective hazard of loose rock and gravel on slopes after last year's slide is not very reasonable.