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 ADVANCED
Ship's Prow

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bologna Pony T,S 
Etch-A-Sketch T 
Ice Cream Turned to Shit T 
Keel Haul T 
Man Overboard T 
Portal T 
Sarchasm S 
Scots on the Rocks T 
Ship Of Fools T,S 
Tunnel of Love T 
Yard Arms T 

Ship's Prow 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,800'
Location: 40.2543, -105.605 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,490
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 30, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Ship's Prow viewed from the north side of Chasm La...

Description 

The Ship's Prow is the comparatively small crag to the south (left) of Chasm Lake on the way up to the Diamond of Long's Peak. While it seems diminutive at first glance, it's actually a good, steep cliff ranging from 300-500 feet tall -- it just looks small because of the backdrop.

The routes here are all trad, with the exception of Bologna Pony and Sarchasm on the far right. In 2004-6, Topher Donahue has put up some 5.13s here, Yardarms, Etch-a-Sketch, and The Keel Haul.

There is plenty of room for development especially along the continuation of South-facing side Ship's Prow which is also known as Glacier Ridge.

Descent either are done by rappel, continuing west on the ridge to the West side of Chasm Lake, or a treacherous ramp right of the Great Dihedral (consider rappels in here).


Getting There 

Follow the Long's Peak trail (the standard slog, aka "Long's Peak East Trail") for about 3.5 miles to a small saddle above treeline where the trail splits. Take the left fork to Chasm Lake (it's signed); you'll reach the lake in about 20 minutes from this junction.

The Ship's Prow is the obvious, prow-shaped formation just south and uphill of the lake. It sits just right of the long talus slope leading up to The Loft.


Climbing Season


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ship's Prow:
Portal   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 440'   
Bologna Pony   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 280'   
Browse More Classics in Ship's Prow

Featured Route For Ship's Prow
Sarchasm. Brilliant. My Dad has a hazardous tendency to shoot photos while he is belaying, and I am climbing (or even falling).

Sarchasm 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Ship's Prow
This route is the brilliant clean arete on the right side of the Ships Prow. Direct start to the Baloney Pony (5.12c). Start Just right of the arete and grab holds and no holds for 8 bolts to an obvious jug where the first pitch of Baloney Pony meets the arete. Put in a couple of stoppers and mantle to the anchors. I would say the business is somewhere between the sixth and eighth bolt but the whole bloody thing is hard. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Ship's Prow
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News
Aug 29 Bentgate Is Hiring: Backcountry Ski Tech 0
Aug 18 New Feature: Season Charts   4
Aug 15 Wayne Crill's Fundraiser 0
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   6
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4

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Upcoming Events
Sep 26Reel Rock 2014 - South Denver
Photos of Ship's Prow Slideshow Add Photo
Eerie photo, looks like a Ship's prow coming through the fog.
Eerie photo, looks like a Ship's prow coming throu...
Ship's Prow from the North East end of Chasm Lake.
Ship's Prow from the North East end of Chasm Lake.
The South Face of Ship's Prow.
BETA PHOTO: The South Face of Ship's Prow.
Ships prow as seen from east ridge of Meeker
BETA PHOTO: Ships prow as seen from east ridge of Meeker
Ship's Prow in November 09.
Ship's Prow in November 09.
Ships Prow north side above Chasm Lake
BETA PHOTO: Ships Prow north side above Chasm Lake
Ship's Prow from MLW.
Ship's Prow from MLW.
Ship's Prow in the clouds.
Ship's Prow in the clouds.
Ship's Prow on early morning approach to Long's East Face, June, 1961.
Ship's Prow on early morning approach to Long's Ea...
Comments on Ship's Prow Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2003

The walk off from this is difficult to find, then at best, loose and dangerous. As well, the noted downclimb of Gangplank's top pitch (5.7, loose) to reach Ship Of Fools is not [recommended]. With this in mind, we took Gillett's suggestion in his recent book to heart and put in an anchor up top. No bolts were required, as this was done on hexes and slings. Lower raps were also rebuilt or reinforced. The last rap still needs a 20' webbing around the big flake to back up the cable. Sorry, I was out of stuff when we arrived.

It is presently possible to descend the formation safely via rappel on Ship Of Fools. Before you "booty" this gear, please consider the intent of those who placed it as a community service. The new station is not at all visible from anywhere but where it stands and is not an eyesore. As well, if you take the gear, you'll end up doing a nasty loose downclimb 450' up, or walking off the back side. I've done that before and it sucks- the objective hazard of loose rock and gravel on slopes after last year's slide is not very reasonable.

Cheers!