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Ship's Prow

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bologna Pony T,S 
Etch-A-Sketch T 
Ice Cream Turned to Shit T 
Keel Haul T 
Man Overboard T 
Portal T 
Sarchasm S 
Scots on the Rocks T 
Ship Of Fools T,S 
Tunnel of Love T 
Yard Arms T 

Ship's Prow 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,800'
Location: 40.2543, -105.605 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,030
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 30, 2002
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Partly Cloudy
66° | 38°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
58° | 39°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
61° | 41°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
58° | 40°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
56° | 40°
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BETA PHOTO: Ship's Prow viewed from the north side of Chasm La...

Description 

The Ship's Prow is the comparatively small crag to the south (left) of Chasm Lake on the way up to the Diamond of Long's Peak. While it seems diminutive at first glance, it's actually a good, steep cliff ranging from 300-500 feet tall -- it just looks small because of the backdrop.

The routes here are all trad, with the exception of Bologna Pony and Sarchasm on the far right. In 2004-6, Topher Donahue has put up some 5.13s here, Yardarms, Etch-a-Sketch, and The Keel Haul.

There is plenty of room for development especially along the continuation of South-facing side Ship's Prow which is also known as Glacier Ridge.

Descent either are done by rappel, continuing west on the ridge to the West side of Chasm Lake, or a treacherous ramp right of the Great Dihedral (consider rappels in here).


Getting There 

Follow the Long's Peak trail (the standard slog, aka "Long's Peak East Trail") for about 3.5 miles to a small saddle above treeline where the trail splits. Take the left fork to Chasm Lake (it's signed); you'll reach the lake in about 20 minutes from this junction.

The Ship's Prow is the obvious, prow-shaped formation just south and uphill of the lake. It sits just right of the long talus slope leading up to The Loft.


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ship's Prow:
Portal   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 440'   
Bologna Pony   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 280'   
Browse More Classics in Ship's Prow

Featured Route For Ship's Prow
Looking down on the first belay. The first pitch meets the arete below the belay at the big flake in the light-colored rock. The move from the flake to the belay is a little scary, and it's probably best to not place gear in the flake, because the rope drag only makes the move scarier and your partner won't like the added fall potential.

Bologna Pony 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Ship's Prow
This is an airy, exposed but totally safe journey up the impressive hanging arete on the far right side of the Ship's Prow (the north-facing side just above Chasm Lake). An awesome route in its own right, this is also a good Plan B tick if things are looking wet and/or ominous on the Diamond.P1: (12a) Though the cracks on the sunny east side of the arete beckon, the first pitch actually climbs a thin, tips splitter around the right side of the arete, on the north-facing wall. Climb a 1.5" crack ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Ship's Prow
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Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   5
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Photos of Ship's Prow Slideshow Add Photo
Eerie photo, looks like a Ship's prow coming through the fog.
Eerie photo, looks like a Ship's prow coming throu...
Ship's Prow from the North East end of Chasm Lake.
Ship's Prow from the North East end of Chasm Lake.
The South Face of Ship's Prow.
BETA PHOTO: The South Face of Ship's Prow.
Ships prow as seen from east ridge of Meeker
BETA PHOTO: Ships prow as seen from east ridge of Meeker
Ship's Prow in November 09.
Ship's Prow in November 09.
Ships Prow north side above Chasm Lake
BETA PHOTO: Ships Prow north side above Chasm Lake
Ship's Prow from MLW.
Ship's Prow from MLW.
Ship's Prow in the clouds.
Ship's Prow in the clouds.
Ship's Prow on early morning approach to Long's East Face, June, 1961.
Ship's Prow on early morning approach to Long's Ea...
Comments on Ship's Prow Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2003

The walk off from this is difficult to find, then at best, loose and dangerous. As well, the noted downclimb of Gangplank's top pitch (5.7, loose) to reach Ship Of Fools is not [recommended]. With this in mind, we took Gillett's suggestion in his recent book to heart and put in an anchor up top. No bolts were required, as this was done on hexes and slings. Lower raps were also rebuilt or reinforced. The last rap still needs a 20' webbing around the big flake to back up the cable. Sorry, I was out of stuff when we arrived.

It is presently possible to descend the formation safely via rappel on Ship Of Fools. Before you "booty" this gear, please consider the intent of those who placed it as a community service. The new station is not at all visible from anywhere but where it stands and is not an eyesore. As well, if you take the gear, you'll end up doing a nasty loose downclimb 450' up, or walking off the back side. I've done that before and it sucks- the objective hazard of loose rock and gravel on slopes after last year's slide is not very reasonable.

Cheers!