Shipoopi!
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 14 votes
Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Steve Schnieder |
Page Views: | 5,693 total · 44/month |
Shared By: | Steven Roth on Jul 22, 2013 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is a great route that offers awesome, well-bolted knob climbing, some fun roof-pulling, and a great view of the Bachar-Yerian. All anchors are bolted.
P1: 5.11a
Start in the plant filled dihedral and climb out right following the blocky dike band (first bolt in the middle) until reaching the small the roof. Pull the roof where there is an obvious jug/point and a possible fixed nut. Continue up and right on some slabby face knobs to the anchor. (4 Bolts, Smallish gear below roof)
P2: 5.11d
This is the money pitch. Sustained, thin knob climbing that wanders up and around a straight line of bolts. The crux comes at the top. (11 Bolts)
P3/4: 5.10d /5.12a
It is possible to link these pitches since the fourth is about 15ft long. The anchors at the top of the 4th are questionable. Begin the 3rd with with the crux right off the belay (4 Bolts). On the 4th, pull the roof via a lond reach to a jug. Continue straight up through crimpy seams (2 Bolts).
P1: 5.11a
Start in the plant filled dihedral and climb out right following the blocky dike band (first bolt in the middle) until reaching the small the roof. Pull the roof where there is an obvious jug/point and a possible fixed nut. Continue up and right on some slabby face knobs to the anchor. (4 Bolts, Smallish gear below roof)
P2: 5.11d
This is the money pitch. Sustained, thin knob climbing that wanders up and around a straight line of bolts. The crux comes at the top. (11 Bolts)
P3/4: 5.10d /5.12a
It is possible to link these pitches since the fourth is about 15ft long. The anchors at the top of the 4th are questionable. Begin the 3rd with with the crux right off the belay (4 Bolts). On the 4th, pull the roof via a lond reach to a jug. Continue straight up through crimpy seams (2 Bolts).
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