Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Oceanic Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Challenges of Leisure S 
Chocolate Nut Factory T,S 
Creature from the Black Lagoon S 
Deep, The S 
Dream Come True S 
Dream On S 
Dreamed Up 
In Your Dreams S 
Leviathan S 
Mud Shark S 
Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) S 
Pound Town S 
Poundcakes T 
Sargasso Sea S 
Shiek Yer Bouti S 
Shiny Toys T,S 

Shiny Toys 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,383
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 15, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jean Aschenbrenner cranking the crux roof on Shiny...

Description 

This route is on the far right-hand side of Oceanic Wall (up the ramp a little towards Dream Dome). It follows a blackened stripe of rock. Look for a piton about 15 feet up and two bolts just above the roof. The crux is pulling the roof. Work left after the roof to the two-bolt anchor.


Protection 

Mixed route, standard rack. Two bolts and a piton to a double bolt anchor.



Photos of Shiny Toys Slideshow Add Photo
Shiny Toys. Climb up the black streak, turn the crux roof past the bolts, and continue up and left to a 2-bolt anchor. <br /> <br />Protection is very sparse.
BETA PHOTO: Shiny Toys. Climb up the black streak, turn the cr...
Comments on Shiny Toys Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren O'Connor
Aug 4, 2003

I got a placement below the first piton, but didn't spot the piton itself and was close to 20-25' off the deck before getting a second piece, with definite ground fall potential. The climbing was probably 5.7. Be warned that the piton doesn't look very good and that this route should, in my opinion, not be taken on lightly.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 14, 2004

Rob Curtis - I agree with the last comment, the climb isn't easy to protect, bring a set of nuts and some small cams. Good fun.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 16, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

I agree with Darren, the pro on this route is not abundant. Well protected crux, though. Also, there is currently a wasp's nest just left of this route (we TR'd it with no problem, however).

By Greg Johnson
Jun 5, 2011

I did this to day with my kids and had a good time. It seems to have three variations. One is what sounds like the original description; a second stays right and up the open corner on bolts; and a third goes to the third bolt of the second option (4th if counting piton) and then does a cool traverse left to meet the first option. In any case, all start with a bolt at about 15 feet, which is high but easy to clip. Then all pass a piton. For option one, move left at the roof. Two bolts (one old, one newer) are over the lip. Continue up the corner and angle left (takes #0.5-1 Friends to anchor). For option three, you traverse in on good hands and poor feet to option one just above the bolts. Didn't do option two all the way, though it looks easy.