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Jean Aschenbrenner cranking the crux roof on Shiny...
This route is on the far right-hand side of Oceanic Wall (up the ramp a little towards Dream Dome). It follows a blackened stripe of rock. Look for a piton about 15 feet up and two bolts just above the roof. The crux is pulling the roof. Work left after the roof to the two-bolt anchor.
Mixed route, standard rack. Two bolts and a piton to a double bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Shiny Toys. Climb up the black streak, turn the cr...
|By Darren O'Connor|
Aug 4, 2003
I got a placement below the first piton, but didn't spot the piton itself and was close to 20-25' off the deck before getting a second piece, with definite ground fall potential. The climbing was probably 5.7. Be warned that the piton doesn't look very good and that this route should, in my opinion, not be taken on lightly.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 14, 2004
Rob Curtis - I agree with the last comment, the climb isn't easy to protect, bring a set of nuts and some small cams. Good fun.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 16, 2006
rating: 5.9+ PG13
I agree with Darren, the pro on this route is not abundant. Well protected crux, though. Also, there is currently a wasp's nest just left of this route (we TR'd it with no problem, however).
|By Greg Johnson|
Jun 5, 2011
I did this to day with my kids and had a good time. It seems to have three variations. One is what sounds like the original description; a second stays right and up the open corner on bolts; and a third goes to the third bolt of the second option (4th if counting piton) and then does a cool traverse left to meet the first option. In any case, all start with a bolt at about 15 feet, which is high but easy to clip. Then all pass a piton. For option one, move left at the roof. Two bolts (one old, one newer) are over the lip. Continue up the corner and angle left (takes #0.5-1 Friends to anchor). For option three, you traverse in on good hands and poor feet to option one just above the bolts. Didn't do option two all the way, though it looks easy.