Shiny Toys 

I got a placement below the first piton, but didn't spot the piton itself and was close to 20-25' off the deck before getting a second piece, with definite ground fall potential. The climbing was probably 5.7. Be warned that the piton doesn't look very good and that this route should, in my opinion, not be taken on lightly.

Rob Curtis - I agree with the last comment, the climb isn't easy to protect, bring a set of nuts and some small cams. Good fun.

I agree with Darren, the pro on this route is not abundant. Well protected crux, though. Also, there is currently a wasp's nest just left of this route (we TR'd it with no problem, however).

I did this to day with my kids and had a good time. It seems to have three variations. One is what sounds like the original description; a second stays right and up the open corner on bolts; and a third goes to the third bolt of the second option (4th if counting piton) and then does a cool traverse left to meet the first option. In any case, all start with a bolt at about 15 feet, which is high but easy to clip. Then all pass a piton. For option one, move left at the roof. Two bolts (one old, one newer) are over the lip. Continue up the corner and angle left (takes #0.5-1 Friends to anchor). For option three, you traverse in on good hands and poor feet to option one just above the bolts. Didn't do option two all the way, though it looks easy.