Shiny Dog 

This route has not been modified. The route to the left has a comfortized jug midway up.

Wow, those bolts to his left look really close.

Here's the scoop on "Shiny Dog". After watching Chris Alber on this route in 1998, I have climbed it many times ever since. Yes the route is squeezed, but it may be my favorite climb on this wall because there is no where to stop & rest until your hands are in the horizontal crack above 5th bolt. You don't use the large, drilled jug pocket on the neighboring route "Super Bon Bon", because if you do, it definitely changes the grade. You can hang out from this jug switch hands and shake out. As for the start, I dyno up & right with the left hand to a jug, then a few reasonable moves lead up left to 2nd bolt. Some people climb the start to "Super Bon Bon" but avoid using the manufactured jug. From a tips lieback hold below a sloping shelf, clip 3rd bolt and then reach (dyno)to a big edge and continue up the blunt arete. At 4th bolt, stay on the arete. Your left foot goes on the big hold below the bolt, and then deadpoint to the horizontal crack. If you move right at the 4th bolt around the arete, it drops the grade slightly too. It's a great training route for power endurance.