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Shiny Dog 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Alber, July 1998
Page Views: 821
Submitted By: Elijah Flenner on Sep 22, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Peter again, its all in how you do it.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is just to the left of Take the Termites Bowling and is squeezed. Climb up good liebacks to a big move past the first bolt to a good right hand hold. Skip the drilled pocket for more interesting climbing past the second bolt, and continue up the overhanging arete. The climb using holds right next to the bolts on Take the Termites Bowling, but it does follow an independent line of moves. Skipping the pocket does not change the grade.


Protection 

6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Shiny Dog Slideshow Add Photo
Peter Beal climbing the Shiny Dog and by-passing the manufactured holds.
Peter Beal climbing the Shiny Dog and by-passing t...
Peter Beal making it all look so easy.
Peter Beal making it all look so easy.
Peter finishing au-natural all the way.
Peter finishing au-natural all the way.
Comments on Shiny Dog Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 17, 2004

This route has not been modified. The route to the left has a comfortized jug midway up.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 9, 2004

Wow, those bolts to his left look really close.

By Mark Rolofson
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Here's the scoop on "Shiny Dog". After watching Chris Alber on this route in 1998, I have climbed it many times ever since. Yes the route is squeezed, but it may be my favorite climb on this wall because there is no where to stop & rest until your hands are in the horizontal crack above 5th bolt. You don't use the large, drilled jug pocket on the neighboring route "Super Bon Bon", because if you do, it definitely changes the grade. You can hang out from this jug switch hands and shake out. As for the start, I dyno up & right with the left hand to a jug, then a few reasonable moves lead up left to 2nd bolt. Some people climb the start to "Super Bon Bon" but avoid using the manufactured jug. From a tips lieback hold below a sloping shelf, clip 3rd bolt and then reach (dyno)to a big edge and continue up the blunt arete. At 4th bolt, stay on the arete. Your left foot goes on the big hold below the bolt, and then deadpoint to the horizontal crack. If you move right at the 4th bolt around the arete, it drops the grade slightly too. It's a great training route for power endurance.

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2014

This route should have never been put in. I mean, seriously! This little section of the wall is a complete shit show with the amount of bolts and the amount of lines. There should have been Amazing face, Meteor Roadblock, and Super Bon Bon...and that's it. All of these bolts 6 inches apart from each other seriously takes away from the existing independent lines which actually climb quite nice rock with cool movements. 'Tis a shame. Can't say I agree with this style of bolting at all....