Shingles  5.10d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 165 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Bill Soule, 2010 Submitted By:  j-dubs on Jul 8, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

pulling the bulge near the bottom of Shingles

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Description 

This is a newer route that is not in the Orton guidebook.

Climb up through underclings and smeary feet to a balancy crux around the third bolt. After a small bulge, the route moves up and left, following a vast slab for another 100+ feet. The slab features much easier climbing than the start but offers plenty of opportunities to blow it. When the angle kicks back even more, belay from a pair of old bolts (these are also the top anchors for Apache Acid) or scramble about 30 feet higher and belay from a pair of glue-ins. It took almost all of a 70m rope to reach the glue-ins, so I'm not sure whether you could go that far on a 60m.

A new intermediate anchor has been added, providing the option of climbing the steeper bottom section and skipping about half of the slab.

Location 

Start left of Acne Problem below a wall of downward-facing flakes.

To descend, walk off by scrambling up and right until you reach the trail near the summit of Flagstone.

Protection 

18 bolts to reach the highest anchor (two glue-ins). Two lower anchors are also available.