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Orchard Wall
Routes Sorted
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Anal Clenching Adventures T 
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Grand Space T 
Hysteria T 
Lewd Operator T 
Portly Gentleman's Route T 
Shiny Faces T 
Springboard T 
Triple Treat T 

Shiny Faces 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Doug Reed 1984
Page Views: 608
Submitted By: Darren in Vegas on Jan 21, 2009

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Description 

Climb up the wide crack to a pod, I was able to get a no hands crouching rest here. Power up the rest of the wide crack to gain the nice butt crack like finger crack feature, where a combination of face holds and jams will see you to the top. I remember getting a horrendous pump on this one when I did it, however, 10+ was my limit at the time.

Location 

The wide crack just left of Hysteria.

Protection 

I remember needing a couple of #3 camalots for this route, otherwise, a double set from fingers to hands will do nicely as the crack gets narrower as you go up. Bolted anchor.


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