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Orchard Wall
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Shiney Faces 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 476
Submitted By: Darren in Vegas on Jan 21, 2009

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Description 

Climb up the wide crack to a pod, I was able to get a no hands crouching rest here. Power up the rest of the wide crack to gain the nice butt crack like finger crack feature, where a combination of face holds and jams will see you to the top. I remember getting a horrendous pump on this one when I did it, however, 10+ was my limit at the time.


Location 

The wide crack just left of Hysteria.


Protection 

I remember needing a couple of #3 camalots for this route, otherwise, a double set from fingers to hands will do nicely as the crack gets narrower as you go up.



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By WiseOldMoon
From: West Hartford, Connecticut
May 27, 2014

Did this over memorial weekend 2014 in HOT weather. Beginning moves are easy and a #4 protects the wide section just fine. There is no need for more than a single rack with doubles of .5 maybe...