Shine On takes the direct line above the second bolt on the first pitch of Obscured By Clouds. Where Obscured moves right on the dike, continue more or less straight up on approximately 100' of independent climbing. Difficult friction climbing leads past 4 more bolts to the top. The crux is encountered getting to the stance for the 4th (2nd new) bolt. Getting onto an annoyingly poor black knob presents an interesting challenge (the real stance is another move slightly down and left).
Turn the roof on top before belaying. A 60m rope is mandatory - there is zero rope left. A 70m rope would be better. The belay on top requires gear. A possible alternative would be to belay from gear under the roof (probably less than pleasant).
The rock is of very good quality although slightly flaky in spots. It has cleaned up reasonably well, but should improve even more as it sees traffic.
Although not sport protected the R rating almost doesn't seem applicable, but since Shine On starts on Obscured, and Obscured has an R, Shine On also gets one - at least for now.
Start on Obscured By Clouds. Walk off.
6 bolts, same gear as for Obscured By Clouds (up to 2.5, mainly thin).
|By Darrell Hensel|
Sep 17, 2009
The FA party found this specific type of climbing difficult to rate. Consensus should be able to sort it out into something accurate, + or -. Please comment on the rating if you do it.