|The Death Scream Area (aka The Perimeter)
A classic, old school problem similar to the popular Self Service in New Joe's. It is old school in that it starts sitting and tops out around 8 feet high. Shindig is classic in that the heel hooks, sloper slaps, and feet cutting loose moves are sooo good. It is steep and traverses a bit so there is more than 8 feet of climbing. Superior rock quality!
Start sitting on some flakes in a pod near the junction of two boulders. Climb to the right following the edge of a water polished face.
|By William Mondragon|
From: My car
Dec 6, 2012
rating: V6-7 7A+
This is listed as Electric Fence in the I.C. Guide. My favorite on this boulder is called stinky and it starts the same but heads right after the first couple moves.
|By Emerson Takahashi|
From: SLC, UT
Jun 8, 2014
I don't know if lowball boulders mean they're "old school"...
Electric Fence is more like the Shindig Variation, which climbs the center of the boulder, avoiding the slopers on the left arete
|By Christian Prellwitz|
From: Telluride, CO
Jun 8, 2014
rating: V7 7A+
Not sure that's accurate since the guidebook literally says '...climb straight up, squeezing slopers on the arete to a techy mantle' for 'Electric Fence'.
The 'Shindig Variation' is more like 'Powdered Toast Man'. Though Caldiero's description is pretty vague for that one, and not at all similar to how the majority of people (and me) climb the line. Most people climb it much more like the description on MP for the 'Shindig Variation', which is the far more natural and obvious line.
Either way, all of these climbs (and 'Stinky') are really fun, with great movement on super high quality rock. I used a couple heel hooks, a double toe hook, a drop knee and a finger lock!