Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Scott Halliday
Page Views: 692 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Apr 25, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A decent route, and the only line on the Original Side bolted by Scott Halliday, who is the chief architect of the New Side. The start is HARD, requiring delicate, powerful moves using pockets on an otherwise smooth face. The arete itself, right of the bolt, is on-route but around the corner is not. You may want to stick-clip the first bolt, or stem across using the boulder to clip it, before launching out on the route. Get established on the lower-angle terrain below the prominent overhang, make a TOUGH clip at the 4th bolt, and then pull the roof. Yes, you'll probably have to trust those delicate-seeming flakes of varnish. Tough route, and maybe slightly sandbagged due to the difficulty of the start.

TRing is tough on this one because of the overhang and the run of the rope, the boulder behind, and the generally cramped quarters.

Location Suggest change

Look for a boltline tucked between Jabba the Hutt on the left and a large chimney on the right. The start is directly behind a largish boulder.
Lower off, or walk off.

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

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