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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Susan Simpson, 1996.
Page Views: 1,206
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Joe Keyser cruising up to another break.
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  • Description 

    The first bolt is about 20ft or so off the deck so bring a small cam, but it's easy ground up to the bolt. The crux is a pull over the bulge toward the end of the route.


    QDs plus some small cams to a 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of Shimmer Slideshow Add Photo
    Peter Dillon getting some pro in before the first bolt.
    Peter Dillon getting some pro in before the first ...
    Comments on Shimmer Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Feb 12, 2002

    At the bulge slightly below the end of the route, where it gets steepest, there are good holds on the right. I've seen folks go left (as shown with the red line), and I have gone right myself. Any comments on this variation? Will Burrows

    By Jeremy Smith
    May 6, 2002

    Climbed this on 5/4/02. The nut on the second hanger was unscrewed to the point of nearly falling off. I tightened it by hand, but that won't last long. As far as the bulge goes, we did it both ways, finding that going right was easier climbing but made clipping the bolt harder.

    By Michael Amato
    Oct 21, 2004

    Easy to protect up to the first bolt with a small TCU and/or stopper. I found the roof on this route (climbed on the left side) much more fun and esthetic than that on neighboring Simmer.

    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Oct 31, 2004

    On 10/28/2004, Dale Haas and I removed the smash (lap) links at the anchor and replaced them with 3/8" quicklinks and Fixe SS rappel rings. Also, we tightened the nuts on all four of the bolts which protect this route.

    This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association ( They appreciate your support.

    By KCP
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Nov 15, 2007
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    I liked this route better than Simmer. The line was more direct, and the moves through the roof were more interesting.

    By justin hausmann
    Nov 17, 2013

    Fun routes, though I thought this and the routes to the right were bolted strangely. Some bolts where close to protectable cracks while right after that, on blank unprotectable faces, there were not bolts. Shorter people also have to pull the harder moves, slightly run out before clipping. I should have saved a 0.1 perhaps before reaching the bolt over the crux.