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Routes in (4) Music Hall
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Backdrop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Balcony Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Balcony Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Drum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Big Nose Valentino T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Broad Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Call Me Ishmael T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Captain Ahab T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Chinese Fiddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Comeback Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Comeback Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Composure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Finger Crack S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Free Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fucking Fall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Harmless Horror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Last Huge Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Moby Dick T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mural Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Musical Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nancy's Attempt S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nut Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Path to the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Red Dates Mochi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Reluctant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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RH3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shield T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sky Wall - Right S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Small Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Starbuck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steal Your Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Three Right Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Undercling Jam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wedding Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Whale Rider T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 771 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Apr 24, 2014 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
This is a classic thin test-piece high above the surf. Originally done on gear, then retroblted in the 90's; it has been restored to its former glory.
Approach the route via Moby Dick or any other combination of cracks below the Whale's Head. Instead of mounting the head itself, belay from the obvious grassy platform.
Move up some blocky stone to an awkward sidestep onto a small ledge below a black streak. It's more overhanging than it looks. Move quickly to avoid a pump, getting your fingers in the crack where you can and using crucial crimps on the face. Shake out when you reach the bomber horizontals, then fire into the stellar diagonal hand crack. The angle kicks back a little more, but the jams are bomber. Big ol' jugs await you at the chute up to the topout ledge.
Approach the route via Moby Dick or any other combination of cracks below the Whale's Head. Instead of mounting the head itself, belay from the obvious grassy platform.
Move up some blocky stone to an awkward sidestep onto a small ledge below a black streak. It's more overhanging than it looks. Move quickly to avoid a pump, getting your fingers in the crack where you can and using crucial crimps on the face. Shake out when you reach the bomber horizontals, then fire into the stellar diagonal hand crack. The angle kicks back a little more, but the jams are bomber. Big ol' jugs await you at the chute up to the topout ledge.
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