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The Shield
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bat Crack T 
Captain Trips aka Black Diamond S 
Shield Traverse T 
Something on the Shield T,S 
Suzy Creamcheese T,S 

Shield Traverse 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Season: Summer, Early Fall
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: Dustin B on Mar 22, 2011

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Description 

This route traverses under the massive roof topping the shield. A unique climb in which you begin and end on the ground, and aside from the first pitch, stays dry in a rainstorm. Take care to protect the follower. Great adventure climbing for the entire party, although if 5.9 is your limit this could be a bit nerve wracking.

P1 - Bat Crack (5.8) - This pitch is listed as an independent route and is usually climbed as such. Start on the far left side of the shield slab at the corner and climb it to slung chockstones at 50', or link it into P2.

P2 - Back Crack (5.9 R) - Climb past the chockstone and lieback up the wide crack. Keep liebacking as the crack heads right around numerous loose, thin flakes and up to a bolt anchor up under the roof, 50'.

P3 - Rainy Day Dreamin' (5.9) - Squeeze into the bombay up and right from the anchor as it pinches off, where you'll briefly climb on the face untill you reach the horizontal crack formed by the top of a massive thin flake. Hand traverse right across the top, and then go down at the end to a set of bolts (top of "Naked Chicken").

P4 - Tough Shit (5.8+) - This has a tough move right off the belay past a bolt that leads to traversing along a varied crack. This pitch really lives up to its name. End at the first anchor you come to (the top of "Something on the Shield") or continue to the 2nd anchor (the top of "Suzy Creamcheese").

P5 - Toto's Traverse (5.6 R/X, more dangerous to follow) - Traverse rightwards off the anchor following the major dike system until it leads back to terra firma in the gully on the far right side of the shield. Make sure to dial the pro for your follower lest you be exposing them to severe groundfall.


Location 

This route starts on the far left side of The Shield and ends in the vegetated gully on the far right.


Protection 

Doubles to #3 Camalot. Old #4 or new #5 can help deep in the wide lieback on P2. There are some bolted anchors and one protection bolt on P4. You can easily bail from the end of any pitch, although a single 60 might not always get you down.



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