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Shiek Yer Bouti 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl, Janet Robinson, and John Baldwin
Page Views: 705
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 5, 2002
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Description 

This route is located on the right side of Oceanic Wall.

Begin in a an A-shaped roof with a bolt just off the ground. Pull the roof via a technical and powerful 11.d move with good protection from the bolt (crux). Continue up past another bolt to two fixed pins, equalize these and continue up into a thin left angling seam, 11.a. Clip another bolt, pull another 11d move and meet up with Twistin' by the Pool where you will find some tricky 5.10 moves about 15 feet above an old fixed pin, a wee bit spicy.

Anchor at 85'.


Protection 

8 draws and something for the 2 bolt anchor.



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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 15, 2002

The "spicey 5.10" above the fixed pin is more like 5.6/5.7... anyway don't be put off from trying this route by the runout near the top. The move to the anchors is weird 5.10 but well-protected.

By Tevis Blom
Jul 12, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I haven't redpointed this route yet, and no one agrees on ratings so lets just say it feels hard. The first crux at the first bolt doesn't seem so hard, kind of bouldery. Clipping at the upper crux is kind of tough but there is a good lay back hold out right. Big wipper if you screw up, this is not a Sport Park job. There is a bolt before the 5.10 at the top, not too bad but weird climbing. hopefully I'll figure out how to redpoint this thing. I've only succesfully led 11d once (at Sport Park!) So, I'm looking for others that aren't too hard. Good bolts, weird old pitons.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 12, 2004

Tevis -This is a good route but I always take and place TCU's on it - if you have not placed much gear before, remember to use longer runners than sport draws. You have the right idea on the 'hard' clip halfway up, use that layback hold to the right, do the clip, *then* come slightly back down and left before heading back up. When you do the clips in this middle section, be prompt about it and don't screw around worrying about the fall, otherwise you *will* fall.

BTW, "Shiek Yer Bouti" translates into 'Protect Your Ass' in the style of Dream Canyon rourte names. :-Pl

enjoy,

bobl

By Tevis Blom
Jul 15, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I guess a few extra placements would be nice, although I felt safe without. The whipper is pretty clean if you don't get the clip before the crux. Great route to log some air time on. Has an old school feel to it, not over bolted.

By J Baldwin
Nov 19, 2010

FA: Steve Sangdahl, Janet Robinson, and John Baldwin.