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Shibby 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Jeremy Monahan
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 959
Submitted By: Jeremy Monahan on Mar 26, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This traverse moves along the middle part of Cloud Shadow. It starts in the small overhang with the juggy hueco and the two finger pocket. Move right to left using holds highlighted in picture. Long, pumpy, reachy, but really, really fun. Crux comes in the form of a long crossover and lowering down to a slippery rail.

Protection 

Use a pad and just move it under climber. No serious falls, but the steps make it possible to twist an ankle.


Comments on Shibby Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 5, 2003
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 27, 2003

What picture?? How is this a new route?? Sounds like an eliminate or possibly the standard right to left traverse that most people do at Cloudshadow. I am glad people are putting up new routes, but adding or taking off one hold (an eliminate) does not consititue a new route, does it? I think it would be very difficult to establish a new route in such an overderveloped area like cloudshadow. I realize that at Morrison every variation and eliminate has it own name, but Flag too? There are areas of flag that are dense and quite a few eliminates, but to call them a new route and not to provide clear directions...sounds a little fishy to me.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 27, 2003

So let me get this straight. A new variation of the right to left cloud shadow traverse? This sounds exactly like the standard traverse.

How about this? I use a slightly different sequence on the Monkey Traverse than most people. So can I just go ahead and submit it as a new route. It still goes at v4 and I call it the Chimp Traverse. Please make a note of it in all future guidebooks.
By bpsloper
Mar 27, 2003

wait, I did the Chimp Traverse in 1998. Seemed V3 to me...
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 27, 2003

looking at some of these other "new" routes, how many are truly new? Are there any guidelines for calling a route or boulder problem new? Or is this left up to any schmoe with time to enter it on this site as new. Are eliminates new? Is there any quality control before they post (research into why there are already chalk all over the holds)? Do these people ask around if the route has been sent? Do the ever wonder how the bolts on their "new" route magically appeared?
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 28, 2003

Steve, I think you're "new" variations are a little different from this eliminate/variation/pointless addition. Yours often provide ways to link excellent pitches of different routes or get a feeling of a route while avoiding a crux. This is just a poorly explained eliminate that ads nothing to the Cloudshadow wall, a wall that is already very tightly packed with fantastic variations.
By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Mar 28, 2003

Sorry for being a jackass, all you ACs. I was just trying to add a quality route I thought people would enjoy. Instead of bitching and moaning all day, get out, enjoy the fresh air and climb. And please, grow some balls and post on your name I am 16, like Matt said and I get out almost every day. Props to matt for taking my back. Gracias, amigo
By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Mar 28, 2003

Also, I apologize about the picture. It did not turn out when i developed the film. I will try to get another one ASAP. Sorry guys.
By Joe Collins
Mar 28, 2003

OK, I'll bite...

Jeremy, I'm glad you are enthusiastic about climbing. I wish I had that sort of enthusiasm when I was 16 instead of hanging out in my buddies' basements staring at the ceiling.

But at the same time I have to agree with some of the points made by the ACs. First, isn't the information in the database supposed to be somewhat accurate, kind of like a self-updating guidebook? There are a few exceptions, of course, when people have made joke route postings (like that 2 foot tall highball at Castlewood). Second, the claiming of first ascents has always been a somewhat contentious thing, hasn't it? Jeremy may not be aware of this etiquette, and I could be wrong, but if you claim a first ascent, you better be sure you were first, lest you draw a reaction such as above (or worse).
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Mar 31, 2003

From a site admin perspective, I think it's just great that all these people have the time and care to spend it reading about each new route and writing comments on them. Thanks for adding to the site, and Jeremy, don't take too much offense. See all the shit I took for adding a route (Unknown below Tony's nightmare in the ice DB) that I claimed was neither a FA or a new route that no one knew about.
By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Apr 2, 2003

Heres another idea. GO CLIMB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that's all i have to say about thatPeace amigos
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 2, 2003

Jeremy, please don't tell people to go climbing. Most posts are made by people between 9am and 5pm. They're made by people who are at work and are a little bored. Please don't be so self righteous. I think people are try telling you that it would be a little less naive amd self important to add the variation to the Cloudshadow Traverse that you described above as a comment to the Cloudshadow Traverse. It is very likely that it is not new, so describing it as a variation that you enjoy rather than a problem that you authored is a tactfull approach. You'll have a lot more fun with climbing in the future if you can detach your ego from your climbing. Climbing is a really fun, but thoroughly pointless pursuit.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2003

I am 16, I am enthusiastic about climbing
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 4, 2003

This route is insane, if it weren't for my elite team of trained river spotters I would have surely failed on this modern day test-piece. Though my spotting team was essential to the send the hardest part was the endurance required for such a sustained and reachy route. Can you imagine if you actually started to the right of THE Shibby and weren't able to step off after the difficult cross to the slippery rail. As modest as I am, I would have to admit that such a route would undoubtedly rival Dreamtime.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 5, 2003

Hello everybody! It is so good to be back at cloud shadow. With much care feeling the holds before attempting and many special trainings on cloud shadow traverse itself, it is not too difficult to do this problem in good flash. Maybe I dab my foot on the ground once, yes?