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Routes in Sidewalk Buttress
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If Dreams Were Thunder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sheep Reaction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shhhhh Eeep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Where the Sidewalk Ends S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 81 ft (25 m) |
| FA: | Stan Price (?) |
| Page Views: | 872 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Jul 8, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Cool, easy and featured climbing up the face to the right of the awesome arete route Sheep Reaction.
Start at the base of Sheep Reaction and get your sport chimneying action on for two-point-five bolts until the wall of the boulder at your back peters out. Then commit to the face climbing and indulge yourself in crazy pockets for seven more bolts. Keep your eye out for an active bird's nest in at least one of the killer pockets. The route ends at an anchor left of the small bush on the obvious ledge.
If, like me, you are thinking maybe you can lower from the top of Sheep Reaction to these anchors, you can't. The anchors for Sheep Reaction are too far up and left.
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