|Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Finger crack to corner, left of "Nurdle".
Pro to 2.5".
BETA PHOTO: Sherrie's is the thin crack on the left (and you c...
Sherrie's Crack with friends
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 9, 2007
Great climb, conducive to running laps and a good one for pushing your limit. As much good pro as you want, though it's not easy to hang around and place it at the crux.
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 24, 2007
Agreed. The crux is low off the ground and short. It can be sewn up with small TCUs. Above that, the climbing eases substantially.
|By armando fimbrez|
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 26, 2008
The crux is at the start. i fell once. Then pulled the move. Great climb!
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 1, 2008
After the finger-crack crux, which sports some truly bomber finger-locks with bad feet, you enter a hand crack in a corner. As Mike said above, the climbing eases quite a bit, but can stay a little pumpy, especially if you have big hands (I do) and can't comfortably cram them in the tight hands section. In fact, for some odd reason I thought the top was harder than the bottom. If you desire, there's a nice face-climbing move to a great rest about 3/4 of the way up, on the left.
Oh, and be polite to other climbers: try not to top-rope directly off of the rap rings so others can can use the anchor if they need to.
From: San Francisco
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Great stance just below crux to place gear - place 2 cams and book it to the obvious jug just before that crack widens. I struggled with the second and third finger locks, fell a few times and took off lots of skin. Didn't seem like a good size for my fingers.
Feb 5, 2010
If you are having trouble with the bottom crux due to the bad feet, try this. Don't smear your feet into the crack. Just paste your left foot on the face to the left of the crack, and paste your right foot on the face to the right. This keeps your body square with the crack and makes it so you don't have to torque as hard on your finger locks. Right at the crux there is a knob that is more like a small bump on the left for your foot. You can put a lot of your body weight on this foot hold.
Most people don't climb past the chains. But you can climb up and to the right through an easy chimney/flare (.6) with hands in the back. When this ends step to the left and follow a finger crack (.9) and then knobby face moves trending left to the tree at the top of Chicken Fever.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 23, 2010
Maybe harder than Serenity Crack?! And my fingerz fit pretty good in both!
The second half is amazing hand jams; tie a fridge to me and I could still hang off em all day.
From: San Francisco, CA
Feb 12, 2012
The finger crack takes great #0.3 and #0.4 camalots, and #0.5 camalot above the crux. The upper section is great (#0.75s and #1s). We climbed serenity crack the week before and thought the serenity crux was a little more powerful and steep, although the fingerlocks were a little more secure.
|By Mark P Thomas|
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
If your follower has trouble on the lower crack, they can use your first cam or 2 to jumar the crack while on belay :-)
This crack eats up cams & nuts, so you can protect it very well. Great & safe climb to push your crack leading.
I have fat hands, so I could never get a good rest on the 5.9 above, apart from stepping left on the large knob about 3/4 up the 5.9 corner. However, the finger jams lower down were bomber. Stem your feet to keep your weight in line below the finger jams. The wide groove around the crack gives you some slope to work with on the lower section, and then a few shallow bulges on the higher section give you some rests to place gear.
The second pitch has a fun 5.6 chimney if you feel like taking a jaunt to the top of the lower cliff. Bring some BD #2-#4s for the second pitch.
From: Mojave, CA
Jun 24, 2013
This crack would be a 5 star classic anywhere else.