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Mt Stuart
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cascadian Couloir 
Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme, The T 
Girth Pillar 
Gorillas in the Mist T 
Ice Cliff Glacier 
Sherpa Glacier 
South Headwall T 
Stuart Glacier Couloir T 
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme T 
West Ridge T 

Sherpa Glacier 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b Mod. Snow

Type:  Snow, 2800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Bill & Gene Prater, Don & Nelson Torrey
Season: Winter, Spring, Early Summer
Page Views: 864
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Jul 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Near the bottom of the glacier. Slabs and streams ...


The Sherpa Glacier is the left-most of Stuart's 3 north-side glaciers. It is also the easiest to climb and descend. The glacier and long curving snow gully above form a classic ski route from Stuart's summit ridge, and offer the peak's best early-season descent. From atop the snow, simple class 3 scrambling leads along the ridge to the summit.


Just left of the Ice Cliff Arete and left of the Ice cliff glacier, on the NE flank of Mt. Stuart. - best approached via Mountaineers Creek Trailhead.


Most will just solo the route. From early summer onward, the route gets increasingly difficult so consider more gear based upon current conditions for rappeling and climbing broken glacial snow.

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