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Cottonwood Creek (Sherman to Cuba Gulch)
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Havana Nights 
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Sherman Climb 
Unknown WI3 

Sherman Climb 

WI4

   
Type:  Ice, 4 pitches
Consensus: WI4 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,996
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 5, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Halfway up pitch 2.

Description 

This climb consists of steps of moderate ice with a long snow or WI2- slog between P1 and P2. It can be made longer by continuing up moderate snow and ice slopes above the upper pillar for as long as your fun meter lets you go.

A popular outing.

P1: Climb to a large bolder on climbers left with bolts (WI3).
Slog through snow with possibly a little WI2-(ish) stuff to the base of the next slab and build an anchor.
P2: Climb slab either to base of pillar or a bolted anchor about 25 feet left of the final pillar under the wall (WI3).
P4: Climb short pillar (2-3 screws or so) and wallow up and left to the first substantial tree which should have a bit of tat on it (WI4).

DESCENT (for DOUBLE 60m ropes)

Rap from tree straight down over the cliff climbers left of the pillar aiming for the bolts at its base. Rap from them to just shy of the boulder above P1 and walk down to said boulder. Rap to ground.


Location 

From the Sherman town site winter parking snow shoe or ski up the closed road for 5-15 min until you see the large ice climb on your left across the drainage. Follow the trail or pick the best route over to it. You might be able to hike in boots only if the approach is well beaten down since almost all traffic here is for this climb.


Protection 

Screws, double 60m ropes- the raps will not work out well for single rope users. If you insist on doing that, bring tat and V threading stuff.

EDIT: Possibly the most critical gear is your full spectrum of avy condition assessment tools since this is at the bottom of a massive bowl.



Photos of Sherman Climb Slideshow Add Photo
Placing a screw on the third pitch
Placing a screw on the third pitch
The whole climb 12/06/2008.
BETA PHOTO: The whole climb 12/06/2008.
Rob leading the first pitch.
Rob leading the first pitch.
Abe leading pitch 2.
Abe leading pitch 2.
Lowering from the second rap station.  notice the direction of the rope, which leads to the bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Lowering from the second rap station. notice the ...
The entire climb 03/09.  Top of the third pitch is at the narrow pillar about 3/4 up the picture.  For most that is the top of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: The entire climb 03/09. Top of the third pitch is...
Pitches 2 and 3.
BETA PHOTO: Pitches 2 and 3.
Ice above the pillar pitch, on the way to the summit ridge.
Ice above the pillar pitch, on the way to the summ...
Comments on Sherman Climb Add Comment
Show which comments
By Buff Johnson
Mar 4, 2009

Tempermental mountain that requires permission from the highest authority; one of those where you sneak up, play position, and quickly & quietly leave. Great route for snow & ice climbing but not worth your life.

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jan 12, 2011

Personally, I have always found this route freeakin' COLD. I only get over there in February every year, so take that for what it is worth. The only time I had fun on it was when we racked up in the sun on the road and hiked and simuled almost non-stop up it! That being said, if conditions were just right with a lot of ice above the WI4 step, it seems like it would be a fun adventure to go for the summit!