Sheriff's Tariff 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Richard Wright, 1997 |
| Submitted By: | Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Bill Wright below the roof on Sheriff's Tariff at ...
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Description This is, IMO, the best route at Sherwood Forest. It isn't particularly sustained, but the roof jugs will get you psyched for the last 20 feet. Climbs a vertical face to a small (3 or 4 foot) roof (there are apparently some kind of rules about which way you go up the roof to make it harder/easier, but it seemed the same both ways to me). Not as hard as it looks by any stretch of the imagination. I think Rossiter rated it 11d or something, which is just ridiculous (like most of the Sherwood Forest ratings). Do it!
Unlike the neighbors to the right, the hangers are rust-colored coldshuts.
Protection 8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO
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Bill Wright getting ready to pull the roof on Sher...
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at the dyke
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On the big holds at the roof.
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| Comments on Sheriff's Tariff |
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By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Berkeley, CA
Sep 6, 2002
| I think it's supposed to be 5.11d if you go over the roof and head left. It's not .11a, but it's not .11d either. Probably (by canyon ratings) an .11c... If you head right over the roof, it's about .11a. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2002
rating: 5.11a
| I don't know that there are any rules about which way to go, but the Left is the better line.
Not bad for a short route. It gives the chance to do some overhang without too stout of a grade or getting too pumped. If taking into account the critter poop that was on it this summer you'd subtract one of the two stars though.
5.10b right or 5.11a left -by modern sport standards. If comparing to a route like Gates Of Eden or Left Wing, then the route goes 5.9 right or 5.10a/b left, but let's face it, those are hard at the grade. |
By Chad Stebbins
Aug 25, 2003
rating: 5.11a
| The holds tend to push you to the right towards Tuckered and Fried, for the first half of the route. The moves are much easier the farther right you go, including at the roof. Following or going left of the bolt line makes this route significantly harder (11d seems reasonable to me). Otherwise the line of least resistance is 11-. |
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Jul 23, 2007
| Tony- what do think of this line relative to Skippin' Stones in CCC? That can of worms aside, this is a fun line with really one big move to gain the roof. I think this was 11a- I can't flash 11d. |
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 2, 2008
rating: 5.11-
| My roof beta: Left sidepull (there are three obvious sidepulls and I only used the middle one) while right is on a "ball" like right hand side pull. Left foot up on a ledge just below the huge ledge...right heel toe hook deep in the ledge. Then static right hand reach up to the very beginning of the jugs. Move the right hand progressively back left to better jugs...bring the feet up and the left hand. Clip. Then establish your feet high and move as far right as you can on the jugs. Throw right to a horn. One more pull in and move your feet up move and it is over.
If that isn't specific enough.... |
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