By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Jul 2, 2012 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Gritstone ethics on rhyolite? Expect minimalistic bolting on this one coupled with great rock and some of the coolest sequences in the Jungle. Oh, did I mention it was one of the longest lines around?
The start is thin and intimidating, the climbing to first bolt being in the no-fall zone. Scamper up past a second bolt to a long section of discontinuous thin crack with unnerving gear (a bomber small nut is key) to two more bolts. The crux lurks there and seems to offer a few options to skirt a blank section. Latch onto the thank-Jeebus flake and you gain access to 30' or so of fingers to off-fingers crack to finish things off.
While I'm reluctant to give 4 stars to two of Andy's routes that are within 100' of each other, the quality of the climbing makes it a no-brainer.