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Shelving Rock

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Shelving Rock 

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Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Benjaminadk on Aug 10, 2012
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Lake George from the route Breaking Bad


Shelving Rock is a destination cliff on the east side of Lake George. Shelving has seen a ton of development in the last few years and is not included in the paper edition of Adirondack Rock. However, ADK rock has kept up on their website.

The approach is short 5-20min depending on which wall you go to. The views of Lake George are first class. There are over 75 routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.12+. Many of the climbs are modern trad (gear and bolts). There are also many straight up sport climbs. Some walls get direct sun and some are shady giving the climber options depending on weather conditions.

This cliff is awesome if you are climbing anywhere near Lake George it is well worth it.

Note: Helmets are recomended for climber and belayer. Lots of choss was cleaned during development but occasionally more loose rock is encountered.

Getting There 

From exit 20 of the Northway head north on rt 9 for a couple minutes then take a right onto rt 149. Follow rt 149 into Washington County and turn right onto Buttermilk Falls Road. Follow this straight out until it becomes dirt. Continue until the Upper Hogtown Parking Area (Sleeping Beauty) is directly ahead. Turn left and go downhill on dirt and paved road for a couple miles. Look for the Shelving Rock hiking trailhead on your right. Continue past this to the next large parking lot of the left. Park. Look for a path across the road (right hand side) and the far end of the parking area. The parking lot is just under 14 miles from 149. Total drive time from the highway is about 40 minutes, depending on how gentle you are to car on the dirt sections.

34 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shelving Rock:
Sub Dude   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 70'   Neanderthal Cave
Devo   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Neanderthal Cave
Breaking Bad   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 70'   Neanderthal Cave
The Gong Show   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Wall
Snake Charmer   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 100'   Main Wall
Rock Lobster   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Wall
Diva   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 95'   Neanderthal Cave
Hackett Corner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 100'   Main Wall
Three Degrees Of Separation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 100'   Carhartt Wall
The Cenotaph   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Carhartt Wall
Monty Python   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   Main Wall
Johnny Tsunami   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 90'   The Big Wall
Wake and Bake   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Shelving Rock

Featured Route For Shelving Rock
The lower seam offers better gear than it first appears...I should have led it.

Stable Weather 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Main Wall
So short, but so good! TR it off the cedar (scramble loose ledges on the left) or lead it, it's a great little problem. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Comments on Shelving Rock Add Comment
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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 30, 2013

There A LOT of climbing here and much of it is listed on the Adirondack Rock goodies page fwiw...

Don't know if I'd give it 4 stars when compared to other 4 star ADK areas, but it's certainly a quality climbing area with some (rare) all sport routes.

By Gunkiemike
Aug 25, 2013

CORRECTION - the turn onto Buttermilk Rd is a LEFT (i.e. north) turn off Rt 149.

By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Sep 24, 2013

Kevin. Not until this year did I really come to appreciate Shelving. I thought it was a confusing choss pile full of 5.11s and 12s I couldn't climb. While this is still somewhat true :) I have found this to be awesome in the 8 to 10- range. The climbs are steep and some are burly but I have surprised at the amount of thin, technical and delicate climbing the cliff offers. Climbs like caribou barbie, doodle bug and wake and bake are more that style. The cenotaph and johny tsunami, on the other hand, really deliver a pump and are gym like full on sport routes. The view speaks for itself. The breeze keeps the bugs at bay. The lake is right there when it gets too hot. It's a different vibe than other adk crags but adds to our diversity for sure. We should get out there this fall and climb together. And while I know you aren't bashing SR, I think a day or two of exploring some new routes might expand your opinion.