|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Hunt, McImerney, Medara 1991|
|Submitted By:||David Shiembob on Aug 20, 2007|
|Comments on Shelter from the Storm||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 11, 2008
|I got worked on the crux at the second bolt; does anyone have beta for that move?|
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 9, 2013
Take a couple of .5s or a .5 and a .75 is you're a wuss. Or even a large nut if you still use those. I thought the .4 would look like a hot dog in a hallway so I skipped. There's an optional #2 placement somewhere higher that will reassure the meek during the trip between bolts.
The lower two cruxes are stout and technical, the upper section is reminiscent of Medusa with big moves between good holds and steeeeeeeeep climbing. There are tons of sucker holds that will explode your forearms if you don't nail the sequence.
Probably my new favorite line at Tower One.
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 15, 2013
|Oddly, i guess, I found the technical crux to be right at the first bolt - the moves getting established in the crack. Easy gear there. The second bolt "crux" seemed pretty straightforward, and the tough climbing ends quickly. The rest of the route is super juggy and steep, but with lots of rests interspersed between well-spaced bolts. The finish is wild! One of the best routes at the towers, for sure.|
By John Steiger
Jul 30, 2015
|Gotta say the first pitch is one of the best 5.11s in upper LCC (Medussa comes close, but this is better). The pitch is almost entirely in the dark stuff, which seems to be the best rock Hellgate has to offer. The higher of the two anchors needs a chain (18 inches should do it, plus a quick link) and a third bolt would be welcome. Like everyone else it seems, we did only the first pitch -- the second is in the poorer quality white rock, and even more intimidating than the first.|