By Keith Earley
From Boulder, Colorado
Aug 11, 2011
| A couple friends and I are heading to Shelf Road this weekend. My partners are still beginners (5.9/easy 10s) and I am pushing myself into hard/mid 11s in preparation for Thailand over Winter break. Which campsite caters more to intermediate climbing, and do you think we will have a problem getting one in the late morning on Saturday? Also, if you could pick one 5.11 climb for me to do, what would it be? This will be my first time on limestone, and want to hit some of the classics.
Thanks guys! | 
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By Julius Beres
From Boulder, CO
Aug 11, 2011
| You shouldn't have any problem getting a campsite... shelf is more a winter/fall/spring destination. It is blazing hot there and you will roast if you do anything in the sun.
If you camp at the Bank, I would either go to the Dark Side for shade all day, or The Gym which has morning sun, but shade as the day gets hotter. Avoid Cactus Cliff/Spiney Ridge unless it is freakishly cool outside (I once went there in September and thought I would pass out from the heat).
Or camp at Sand Gulch and switch sides of the canyon in the middle of the day as the sun moves. (Start on Freeform wall in the morning, and go over to Contest Wall in the afternoon).
I can't recommend too many routes since I usually go there December-March and climb in the sun... |
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By Julius Beres
From Boulder, CO
Aug 11, 2011
|
Lats in August? With temps forecast in the 90s? Get there super early! |
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By JasonT
From Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 11, 2011
| Suspender man at the Dark side....or enchanted porkfist. Too hot anywhere else. |
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By Doug Lintz
From Kearney, NE
Aug 11, 2011
| JasonT wrote: Suspender man at the Dark side....or enchanted porkfist. Too hot anywhere else.
Do these two great routes plus Muted by Reality. When the sun has set run over to the Bank and do Back to the Future.
Stay cool! |
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By Keith Earley
From Boulder, Colorado
Aug 11, 2011
| I went climbing at Enchanted Rock in Frederecksberg TX in June, so I think I can handle the heat. Plus it's good conditioning for Thailand. According to MP, suspender man might be out of my range, but at 6'2" with a +3 Ape index, I think I might try to project it. Dark side seems like a good bet. One final question: even though this is a sport area, should I bring one set of mastercams 1-4 for the occasional thin seam, or is that unnecessary? |
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By JasonT
From Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 11, 2011
| Nope...not needed. And agreed on Back to the Future. It is SICK!!! |
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By Kbird
From Lakewood, CO
Aug 12, 2011
| Agreed, it will be INSANELY hot anywhere in the sun. I would stay at the Dark Side (which in my opinion has the best rock at Shelf anyways.) The routes there have always felt a little stiffer for the grade to me (at least compared to areas like Cactus), so just be aware of that. Camping will not be a problem anywhere.....you will probably have the place to yourself! |
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By cheifitj
From Boulder, Colorado
Aug 12, 2011
| Keith Earley wrote: One final question: even though this is a sport area, should I bring one set of mastercams 1-4 for the occasional thin seam, or is that unnecessary?
Leave them home. There are enough bolts to keep you happy. |
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By coreylee
From Berkeley, CA
Aug 12, 2011
| Have you thought about going to Ten Sleep |
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By Joe Huggins
From 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
Aug 12, 2011
| The North End has some really fun routes. One guidebook calls The Form the best route at Shelf. It should be getting shady there in the PM. |
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