Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Wind Tower - S Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balls of Fire 
Beluga 
Blackjack 
Diffraction 
Disguise 
Futile Laments 
King's X 
Lion, The 
Lower Triagonal 
Metamorphosis, The 
Muscle Up, The 
Punter, The 
Rainbow Wall 
Scotch and Soda 
SE Chimney 
Sheer Terror 
Uplift, The 
Ur-Ine Trouble 
Yellow Traverse, The 

Sheer Terror 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Skip Guerin, Chip Ruckgaber 1983
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Pins [details]
Page Views: 2,716
Submitted By: Hank Caylor on Apr 9, 2007
Good Page? 3 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BH on 2nd ascent of Sheer Terror.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pull up into the roof's apex and crimp up and right to a left-angling, slopey ramp. This is the last chance to chicken out and avoid a really, really, bad fall (great climbing, though). Commit to the slopey ramp and find more hard climbing and similar commiting moves into the final dihedral, where more heinously great and commiting moves are to be found until the top is gratefully reached.

If Skip Guerin did this in '83, and Fire' climbing shoes didn't get imported to the U.S. until '84, it means Skip did this in EBs, and thus makes him the burliest human I know. That or he's the devil.


Location 

Sheer Terror starts in an obvious roof apex about 20'-30' down and to the right of the Scotch and Soda roof. They actually kinda look like roof twinsys.


Protection 

Clip 2 OLD pins and an OLD fixed stopper in the roof's apex. This tat will keep you from grounding for the route's technical crux. A crappy red Alien and all the RPs you own are what's left for pro for the next 60'-70'. A pin anchor is at the top.



Photos of Sheer Terror Slideshow Add Photo
Finishing the route.
Finishing the route.
Comments on Sheer Terror Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Apr 10, 2007

He he he, Nice one Hank! Congrats bro-

W

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Apr 11, 2007

Nice job! I was walking out of the canyon on Monday about 6pm or so and saw you coming down. I guess I just missed the big show.

What ever happened to Skip G?

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 13, 2007

Hank, Killer 2nd ascent. It really puts Skip's climbing talent into perspective given how long ago that was climbed ,the gear he was using, the rock shoes he was probably wearing and the crude mind altering substances he was on at the time of his lead. Let's also give credit to his equally fuked up belayer, Chip Rockgrabber.
Skip can usually be found partying up on the hill with college chics.