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Wind Tower - S Face
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Lower Triagonal T 
Metamorphosis, The T 
Muscle Up, The T 
Punter, The T 
Rainbow Wall T,S 
Scotch and Soda T 
SE Chimney T 
Sheer Terror T 
Uplift, The T 
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Yellow Traverse, The T 

Sheer Terror 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Skip Guerin, Chip Ruckgaber, 1983
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Pins [details]
Page Views: 2,999
Submitted By: Hank Caylor on Apr 9, 2007

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BH on 2nd ascent of Sheer Terror.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pull up into the roof's apex and crimp up and right to a left-angling, slopey ramp. This is the last chance to chicken out and avoid a really, really, bad fall (great climbing, though). Commit to the slopey ramp and find more hard climbing and similar commiting moves into the final dihedral, where more heinously great and commiting moves are to be found until the top is gratefully reached.

If Skip Guerin did this in '83, and Fire' climbing shoes didn't get imported to the U.S. until '84, it means Skip did this in EBs, and thus makes him the burliest human I know. That or he's the devil.


Location 

Sheer Terror starts in an obvious roof apex about 20'-30' down and to the right of the Scotch and Soda roof. They actually kinda look like roof twinsys.


Protection 

Clip 2 OLD pins and an OLD fixed stopper in the roof's apex. This tat will keep you from grounding for the route's technical crux. A crappy red Alien and all the RPs you own are what's left for pro for the next 60'-70'. A pin anchor is at the top.

Per Brad G: there are no longer any pins at the anchor. Just an old rusty nut.



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Finishing the route.
Finishing the route.
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By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Apr 10, 2007

He he he, Nice one Hank! Congrats bro-

W

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Apr 11, 2007

Nice job! I was walking out of the canyon on Monday about 6pm or so and saw you coming down. I guess I just missed the big show.

What ever happened to Skip G?

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 13, 2007

Hank, Killer 2nd ascent. It really puts Skip's climbing talent into perspective given how long ago that was climbed ,the gear he was using, the rock shoes he was probably wearing and the crude mind altering substances he was on at the time of his lead. Let's also give credit to his equally fuked up belayer, Chip Rockgrabber.
Skip can usually be found partying up on the hill with college chics.

By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Jun 25, 2014

There are no longer any pins at the anchor. Just an old rusty nut.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 25, 2014

Heads up on the poison ivy at the base of the route.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 26, 2014

The poison ivy is the least of your worries on this route. :)

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 2, 2014

As the fearless belayer, it actually is.

Maybe it is second behind the manky anchor ripping while I am screaming TAKE on toprope.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 2, 2014

You should put together a risk assessment/hazard analysis chart for this route. That would be pretty funny - the whole thing would pretty much be red.

By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Jul 20, 2014

The poison ivy at the base is the most of Phil's worries.