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This is the mega classic thin crack/corner to the right of Classic Crack on the Red Wall.
Pitch 1 - A balancey mix of face and liebacking gets you through the first twenty feet, which is the crux. After this a fun mantle and easier but engaging climbing takes you to the bolted anchor.
Pitch 2 - Traverse right to a large block then follow the hand and finger crack through the overhanging upper wall to the right of Pinhead. The last ten feet are surprisingly steep and give the route an exciting, perfectly protected crux finish.
At the top of the approach trail go right 50ft to the Red Wall. Obvious thin crack with lots of chalk to the right of classic crack and thai stick.
Pro to .75", extra small nuts and microcams for the first pitch. Pitch two takes pro to 2" and one #3 camalot to protect the finish.
follow the rope to 1st anchor over the arete
Having fun on Sheer Stress.
Top of p1.
Amy, smooth as silk.
|By peachy spohn|
Aug 19, 2007
one of the best 5.10 climbs at Broughtons.
From: Chicago, IL
Nov 22, 2009
Agreed. A fine climb with some very thin moves through the crux. I placed one #0 TCU, and that seemed sufficient through the crux. Another one wouldn't hurt though. I'd recommend being solid at the grade on this one.