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(3) Red Wall
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Anastasia TR 
Arcturus TR 
Classic Crack T 
Critical Mass S 
Hard Body S 
Hit the Highway T,S 
Kashmir S 
Let's Just Call It Kashmir Direct? S 
Mr. Bentley TR 
No Friction T 
On the Loose TR 
Physical Graffiti T 
Pinhead S 
Red Eye S 
Sheer Energy T,S 
Sheer Stress T 
Shoot From the Hip T,S 
Thai Stick S 

Sheer Energy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 980
Submitted By: hemp22 on Jul 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Derrick cleaning Sheer Energy.

Description 

This is a fun climb with mixed protection.
Climb up to the top of a free-standing blocky pillar. Commit to the moves off the pillar and onto a ledge below a short crack. Once above the crack, reach the first bolt out on the left, and continue face climbing up and to the left to reach the anchors.

This climb can also be linked up into the 2nd pitch of Sheer Stress to make an enjoyable long pitch. Do this by clipping a long sling on the last (3rd) bolt, and then, instead of heading left to the anchors, skip the anchor bolts and head up right to join with Sheer Stress P2. Use slings on the upper pitch to reduce rope drag.

Location 

Downhill to the right about 15' from the tree in the middle of Red Wall. Left of the fully-bolted sport climb Hard Body.

Protection 

Great nut placements or cams to 1" protect the first half, then 3 bolts + anchors.


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By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 12, 2012

Great fun route and one of the most straight forward 5.10a routes I've ever done. Much easier than Sheer Stress or Classic Crack next to it! I would also argue that it was easier than The Sickle or Edges and Ledges which are both 5.8. Solid pro and a great tick for new 5.10 leaders.
By Floyd Hayes
Jul 18, 2012

At the first bolt I stepped left on a tiny hold and climbed the face directly above--and it felt much harder than what I expected for 5.10a (I took a couple of leader falls). One of my partners stayed in the corner and liebacked a well chalked flake, which may have been the 5.10a way.