|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 125'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||richard magill on Sep 19, 2011|
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By richard magill
Sep 19, 2011
Wow, is my memory going! I helped bolt this route (in 1997?) with Tod Anderson, Ernie Moscovics, and Tom Hanson, as I recall. I knew it was long but I didn't remember how long this line is.
Went back there this fall with the wife and thought I could do it with a 70 M rope and only 18 draws. Sport Climbing Epic!
Ran out of draws (after the crux, thankfully) near the top and started skipping clips and using single biners to clip (obviously I subconsciously knew that was coming because I had several biners on my harness). Realized I couldn't get down without some shenanigans, as we only had one rope. Not a good feeling, to be well over 100 ft up, no anchors in site, knowing I can't lower and I am out of draws!
Thankfully lowered off the midpoint anchors on "If Dreams were Thunder" and was able to get my stuff off the route without too much drama.
Funny, normally when you get in this situation, you think "what madman bolted this thing"? But you don't normally answer that with, "oh yeah, I'm the madman"!
By Abe Dubs
From: Bozeman, Montana
4 days ago
Climbed this with a 70m rope but be aware that you can't clean the route on lower/rappel with a 70m. When I lowered, with rope stretch I could just touch my toes to the ground, far from the start of the climb. To clean the route, my partner belayed from the spot I had just lowered to and I top roped it, cleaning as I climbed. Knot the ends of your rope!