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Sheep Mountain Rock is the long south-facing cliff band (350 feet high by 1,500 feet long) located on the north side of the valley about 2 miles from the trailhead, where its low-angled eastern flank can be seen. With an approach longer than any at nearby Lumpy Ridge, routes no more than 4 pitches long, and containing only 10 routes, it's not exactly a hot climbing destination. But its uniqueness, solitude, and two classic routes (Double Fantasy - 5.10a and Glimmerton Corner - 5.10b) make the hike in worthwhile, especially if you're looking for a break from Lumpy.
There's not exactly a standard approach as there's no trail from the main trail to the rock - not even a faint "climber's trail." But to start with, head west from McGraw Ranch along the Cow Creek Trail as if you're heading to Bridalveil Falls. When the rock is in full view, look around for whatever looks like the best way up. Guidebooks suggest to start heading up at either the Gem Lake junction or just beyond the trail to Rabbit Ears campground. Whether you choose one of these or find a better way, you'll be hiking uphill farther than you would to Sundance - without the benefit of a trail.
A. Double Fantasy, 10-, 3p, 320', gear.
4 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sheep Mountain Rock:
Gimmerton Corner 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Featured Route For Sheep Mountain Rock
Double Fantasy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Sheep Mountain Rock
Double Fantasy is a quality route with a unique and exciting first pitch (the crux). It's the left-most of Sheep Mountain's documented climbs and is distinguished by two opposing flakes which start about 50 feet off the deck. P1) Find the best way through the bulge right off the ground and work your way up and right before heading back left to the base of the opposing flakes. Stem up between them (10a crux near the top) and traverse up and right to a belay below a small roof. ~130'.P2) From the...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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