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Bang's Canyon
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She Bangs 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: piz
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: rob pizem on May 25, 2011
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Description 

Head up the black streak on easy climbing to a hard clip and the crux. Make it to the jugs off some small crimps via a boulder problem, mantel to the top, and clip the chains. I have not had time to brush the holds yet, and there maybe some loose junk near the anchor. I still have to clean it a bit more, so be aware. Once clean, it will be a fun, short, and powerful route.


Location 

Start on the first two bolts of Baby Bang and head to the right up the black streak. You may want to unclip the first bolt and put a sling on the second to reduce drag.


Protection 

6 bolts plus anchors.



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By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Unless I missed some holds checking it out and cleaning off holds, this is quite a bit harder than .11+. Up until the crux, it is nice and juggy, and a little dynamic. However, once you make a long reach to clip a bolt off of a left-hand jug/sidepull and grab a right hand sidepull, from there there is nothing but a two-finger, crimp pocket for the left and a few small crimps up and right, before the route backs off, before you finish the crux and the game is over.