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SHAZAM 

Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Aaron James Parlier
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: Aaron James Parlier on May 22, 2011

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Aaron James Parlier on the FA of "SHAZAM"...

Description 

SHAZAM comes from the Captain Marvel comic book.
The acronym stands for: the wisdom of Solomon; the strength of Hercules; the stamina of Atlas; the power of Zeus; the courage of Achilles; and the speed of Mercury...

While you dont certainly wont need all of that to hike this rig, a bit of crimp strength and core sure goes a long way...

To start the problem, look on the 2nd massive boulder face of the two faces that make up Olympus. Find where "FSM" and "Fulgora" are and your in the right area.

Find the thin crack seam that runs along "FSM". To the right of this seam, at about head height are two thin, diagonal, staggered, slightly right facing crimps. to the right of these crimps is a baseball sized, light pink dropstone.

Stand-start on these small crimps. move right into a larger sidepull/pinch hold, and then gain the nice crimp above that.

From the nice crimp, make a large move up high to gain the crack line of "Fulgora", and finish as per "Fulgora".

Location 

To start the problem, look on the 2nd massive boulder face of the two faces that make up Olympus. Find where "FSM" and "Fulgora" are and your in the right area.

Find the thin crack seam that runs along "FSM". To the right of this seam, at about head height are two thin, diagonal, staggered, slightly right facing crimps. to the right of these crimps is a baseball sized, light pink dropstone.

Protection 

pads/spotter


Photos of SHAZAM Slideshow Add Photo
The start holds, Second big hold off of the start, and the third smaller crimp on "SHAZAM" (v7?)
The start holds, Second big hold off of the start,...
Steve Lovelace going for the 2nd ascent of "SHAZAM"
Steve Lovelace going for the 2nd ascent of "S...

Comments on SHAZAM Add Comment
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By Jaffy G
Jul 6, 2011
rating: V7 7A+

Great line using small holds on steep terrain. I sent it with alternate beta; skipping the sidepull and going straight to the nice crimp, then busting out to the crack.