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Metropolis Sector
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Captain Confusion S 
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Shazam S 

Shazam 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Pegg
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 295
Submitted By: Pinklebear on May 7, 2003

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  • Description 

    This is just one route left of Metropolis and climbs up the nice, tan face to a strange incipient seam/offset on a steeper-than-it-looks headwall. The route does have a fair bit of Fortress Dust up high, which only adds to the challenge, but it is manageable. Bring, however, a toothbrush.

    Start just left of Metropolis on ledgy ground and bust past three bolts to a small roof. Cryptic climbing leads up and left over the roof (5.12-) to a decent stance, then fun climbing--with long reaches between pretty good holds-- follows, to a decent shake on a three-finger pocket below the crux bulge. An intricate series of moves on sidepulls, gastons and finicky crimps gains better holds higher in the corner, but the pump clock keeps ticking all the way to the anchor. It might be a bit crumbly up there still ... This seems stout for the grade, but maybe it just needs some traffic and some brush-love. It is certainly not much easier, or just as hard as, Metropolis--and steeper. This is a good pump in a nice position.


    Protection 

    12-14 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).



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    By chris Kalous
    Jan 12, 2012

    In many ways, this route is better than Metropolis.