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Shattered
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 33
votes
Routes in Campfire Crag - South Face
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Banquet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Feast T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Feminine Itch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Feminine Itch Direct Start S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fetus, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Fool's Ruby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Heart Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I Love my Marine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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I Love my Marine, Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Impatience (aka A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kundalini-Linguini-Weenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Leaden the Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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McAloo Tikki TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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McChoss TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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McRib TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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McStain S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Natty Tree Goes Rogue T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Picnic T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shattered S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sokolove S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Talisker's Choice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | (TR) Kelby Burnham, Resa Ashbachar, FL: Bob Gaines and Tony Grice, 2008; FA Left Variation (10+ TR) Matt Beebe and Jaime Camp, 11/22 |
| Page Views: | 4,001 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Jan 4, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Begin just left of the Fetus and make a step-across move/dyno to gain a ledge with the hands. Shorter people can easily stem off the boulder to reach the ledge. Hand traverse left to the 2nd bolt, then power over a bulge on crimps. The middle section has some enjoyable steep face climbing, with a 10b/c slab move above the fourth bolt.
[Update] Looks like a key hold has broken off at the crux above the second bolt, so this section is much harder now (5.11a/b/c), and it may take a few more ascents to achieve consensus on the new rating, but it's definitely harder than 5.10+.
If you're toproping, an easier variation is to hand traverse all the way left to the left end of the ledge, way past the 2nd bolt, then power over the bulge on crimps, (10+, height dependent), FA (TR) Matt Beebe and Jaime Camp 11/22.
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