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Campfire Crag - South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banquet T 
Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 
Feast T 
Feminine Itch S 
Fetus, The S 
Fool's Ruby T 
Heart Slab T 
I Love my Marine S 
I Love my Marine, Direct T 
Impatience (AKA A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 
Kundalini- Linguini- Weenie T 
Lunch T 
McAloo Tikki TR 
McChoss TR 
McStain S 
Picnic T 
Shattered S 
Sokolove S 

Shattered 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: (TR) Kelby Burnham, Resa Ashbachar, FL: Bob Gaines and Tony Grice, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,410
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jan 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Shattered

Description 

Begin just left of the Fetus and make a step-across move/dyno to gain a ledge with the hands. (This maneuver will be more difficult the shorter you are) Hand traverse left, then power over a bulge (10c, height dependent) on knobs. The middle section has some enjoyable steep face climbing, with a 10c slab move above the fourth bolt.

Protection 

5 bolts, 2-bolt belay/rap anchor.


Photos of Shattered Slideshow Add Photo
Shattered
Shattered
Christina mid-crux on Shattered (5.10c), Joshua Tr...
Christina mid-crux on Shattered (5.10c), Joshua Tr...
Christina starting the upper crux of Shattered (5....
Christina starting the upper crux of Shattered (5....

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By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 20, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Starts with a reach to a high starting hold and then another reach to a ledge - there was no need to stem on this at the start unlike it's neighbor just to the right.

The crux past the 2nd bolt (pulling on sharp, grainy crimps, not knobs, over a bulge) is a bit unpleasant, but fortunately the climbing above is much better and the sequence past the 4th bolt is particularly engaging as well as easier than the lower crux. Two stars out of five.
By RTM
Dec 22, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun climb. I found the crux (near the bottom) to be short and uneventful, but the upper part had some cool movement. I thought the route was easier than proposed, but that may be because the crux involved more pulling and less footwork (the latter of which I have none).
By mmurduff
Feb 3, 2014

I couldn't pull the move past the bulge (crux). Small crimps and a high step right foot shut me down... ugh.
By James Barnett
From: Bishop Ca.
Nov 3, 2014

4th bolt needs a wrench, loose. Didn't have a wrench or I would have tightened it.